Quote:
Originally Posted by moorecomp
Under the water pump housing, the metal plate with the semicircular cutout could be remade without the cutout and installed with a full gasket under it. Liberal use of sealant and removal of the impeller and you should be good to go.
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You're familiar with this motor! (Or is that a common pump housing approach?)
I thought I was going to take exactly this route. But it turns out the water pump can't easily be sealed to the water intake passage. It's immersed within a flooded "compartment" - the passage actually opens inside this area,
beside the impeller housing. The pump is only actually sealed on the output side (to a valve that leads to the ICE's water jacket).
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightflite
If its any help with the power required, boats like this are (used to be) powered by British Seagull longshaft outboards. Altho plated as 4 HP, I understand they measured as about 1/2HP - but they had huge reduction and swing a large coarse prop. What they lost in power and honesty they gained in propulsion efficiency.
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True, true, good points. I do know that this boat's 15 horse twin is uncommonly big - most of the other boats of this size around here get by just fine with 7 horse singles (gas or diesel), or 9 hp outboards.
And there are still a
few people who use boats like this with no motor at all. It just takes away a safety measure and forces you to be more thoughtful about using the boat.
Quote:
For your relatively short running time you could probably also add more volts to your small motor to get the required performance - and watercool it if necessary for survival
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Water cooling it at this point is out. Too ironic!
But overvolting is always an option.[/QUOTE]