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I'm interested in seeing some more accurate results on this alternator disable. I would expect that the difference in MPG is not even measurable in an apples to apples test.
Your experience in having the car being loaded even worse than turning the AC on is what I would expect when you're suddenly trying to top off a deep-cycle battery! That is not a fair comparison to driving with it topped off the whole time. Your alternator is likely doing 100% of capacity for the first few minutes.
Also consider some of the side effects to the system running ~12V instead of ~14V. This is a solid 10~15% reduction in spark voltage! might explain why those plugs aren't working so hot anymore.
Fuel pressure probly not an issue with your driving style, but again reducing voltage to the pump isn't gonna help it keep up.
Bulb brightness is not linear, likely 60% but you mentioned turning it back on for night driving. Safety issue.
Overall I would argue that it is adding quite a bit of unreliability and trouble over less gains than you would see by putting your underdrive pulley back on. And a lighter battery wouldn't hurt.
Also I have an issue with your kill switch.. the crankshaft position sensor is the most delicate noise-prone and critical line you could have chosen to introduce trouble into. The switch's presence in the circuit could easily be a source of misfire issues, plus throw the ECU into odd limp-home operating modes. I would suggest the fuel pump or ignition circuit sources for this venture, but ultimately my suggestion to someone willing to do this sort of stuff is to install megasquirt.. this will open up a whole new world of knobs to tweak, plus let you do all of these things through a laptop instead of hacks.
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