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Old 09-02-2010, 10:19 PM   #120 (permalink)
Zerohour
Master EcoModder
 
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 314

Pooparu - '01 Subaru Outback Limited
90 day: 28.12 mpg (US)

Cop Car - '94 Chevy Caprice Interceptor 9C1
Last 3: 18.48 mpg (US)

Mini - '11 Mini Cooper
90 day: 37.63 mpg (US)

Gramps - '95 Subaru Legacy Postal
90 day: 23.18 mpg (US)
Thanks: 10
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I do not use a "top coat" or Gel Coat. Gel coats are used for parts when they are produced in a mold. I guess I could use a gel coat on the top of the resin layers, but It would require additional sanding. It would basically make it rework to put a gel coat on top. I do do a "top coat" over the fiberglass layers, but I just layer up resin to fill in the low spots and then sand it down.

Speaking of which...I said I wasn't going to sand these smooth, but somehow I was out in the garage again and found myself sanding away anyway. :crazy:

Went down the time and layered up a coat of resin. Was actually pretty smooth. May go a little better than the bumper block...except that I have two wheels skirts, and one wheel skirt has more surface area than the bumperblock. :-p I've learned a few tricks to push this along this time though. I tried to reserve myself with the bumper block, but in reality, you could make the fiberglass 1/4" thick and it still wouldn't weigh much. This time around I'm filling in lower spots with additional fiber-patches first. This will quickly build up the low spots, compared to the straight resin I used on the bumper block.

But sadly my Tyvex suit needs to be replaced. The crotch is ripped out and I've walked a hole in the shoe portion. Not bad considering I've got probably several full days in that sucker. (all the sanding/fiberglassing from the bumper block, previous fiberglass work, and painting).
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