[3-Wheeler]

----- Design -----
Use the AeroHead Streamlining Template (Most important)
---make sure you understand and use this shape for the proper curvature
---come up with a way to make your panels to this curvature and not overly steep
---I used two master templates - a steeper one for the sides and a shallower one for the top

Make sure that you understand the wind and mechanical forces involved
---The 2 inch thick foam will stand up to at least 50 mph side winds as tested on 10-26-10 due to extreme weather conditions.
---Dynamic forces include heavily rutted roads and cause shock forces to both the tail and mounting system. The faster you drive, the higher the acceleration forces are to the wheels, tires, frame and tail extension over any encountered jolts in the road.

I provided widely spaced lighting to compensate for the extremely narrow width tail

I contacted my Insurance Company about my intention to build the tail, and ensured that they would endorse the modifications to the car in case of accident. Only the OEM portion of the car is covered, but the tail does not alter their commitment to insure.

------ Tools ------
(1) Fine toothed hacksaw blade (24 tooth/in)
(1) Half-round rasp file (invaluable for roughing both foam and glass
(5) Custom sized sanding blocks made from foam and various grit sand-paper (usually 40-60 grit)
---several of the blocks were shaped to match the Honda body curvature above the rear tires (concave & convex)
(1) Full size hand saw for making long cuts in foam
(1) Belt sander for making wood support piece above hatchback LED lights (at work)
(1) Band saw for cutting acrylic covers for lights (at work)
---tried cutting by hand, but cracked almost immediately
---Sabre-saw had trouble as well, and scratched untaped surface
---- note: tape the surface if you use this saw type
(1) Drill press for drilling and counter-sinking various holes in acrylic covers

------ Supplies ------
(1) 2x4 lumber - 8 ft long
---actually Cedar would be better, since it's about 70% as strong and quite a bit lighter
(1) 1x2 lumber - 4 ft long
---used for creating embedded attachment points inside the foam structure
(2) 2 inch thick, 4x8 ft Owens-Corning Foamular foam board
---it's amazing that I went through two full size sheets
(0.5) 1 inch thick, 4x8 ft Owens-Corning Foamular foam board
(1) gallon of Elmers Wood Glue
(1-1/2) gallons of Light-weight Spackling
(20) or so 1/4-20 bolts ranging from 1.5 to 4.25 inches long
(?) Various brass tubing, aluminum round stock, several springs, braided wire, brass hinges
---used as the fastening system for the small hatch
(10) yards of 6 ounce fiber glass cloth (est.)
(1) yard of 2 ounce fiber glass cloth
---used for covering any area with tight bends
(1) gallon of West System Epoxy Resin
(1) quart of West System Epoxy Hardener
(16) feet each of multicolored 18 guage wire for various tail lights
(16) feet of convoluted tubing
(16) LED lights - SuperBrightLED's
---a combination of narrow and wide angle lights for rearward lighting
(10) electrical pins from a GM dealer connector kit
---pins were too thick and wide, and had to modified with B&D rotary grinder
---final pin size was 0.025 thick x 0.090 wide
---thanks to Rock County Honda/GMC, Wisconsin for the free connectors
(5) full size tubes of Bondo Spotting Putty
---this barely scratches the surface upon getting the tail smooth
---it's estimated that another 10 - 15 tubes will be needed before multiple coats of primer are sprayed
---only the three visible sides will be smoothed to showroom quality, plus tail-end

----- Cost -----
List big ticket items here:
-$50 Foam
-$90 Epoxy Resin and Hardener
-$30 Fiber glass cloth
-$40 Spackling
$125 LED lights and sockets
-$80 Primer Paint - next year
$150? Automotive Paint - next year - typically about $30 per quart
$??? Labor (4 months - two weeks) (two more months to go - sanding/painting)

Note this table will be edited to add additional info if necessary.

Jim.