[Dust]

Originally Posted by ConnClark

Here is the original post of the picture. He had the nozzle 12" away. It was after 1 year of use and had never been run without an OEM airfilter.

Ahh, that thread. There are alot of things that make me throw out that thread as a sample of bad things that can happen.

1. Unless the blades were cooked(overheated), the black stuff on the turbo shouldn't be there. i understood he bought it that way. I bet a whole lot of oily crap from everywhere in my intake system was dumped into my oil after running some water through the system.
2. .6mm nozzle. If memory serves, I think that is close to 4-5 gph. All companies but AIS say to stay at 2gph or below.
3. No info on intake setup. Distance from the turbo is trumped by straightness of the pipe before the turbo. With my current tube I am in the middle of a 12" straight shot to the turbo, because it gives the air a chance to straighten out, and it puts it right after the BPV recirculation point. With the filter, there will be no bend to gather fluid.
4. Depending on settings, and the size of his turbo, he could simply just be flowing more that his pipe and turbo can handle. Would a t76 take that much sure, but I know that my q37 would not go quietly into that good night with that much flow. I don't think that my 1.875 diameter pipe would be happy with that much flow, especially air that is uncompressed and heated.

Originally Posted by ConnClark

I always wondered why you don't see many saabs on the road these days.

I think faulty PCV systems and the resultant massively sludged engines would be more the cause,

Originally Posted by ConnClark

I have no doubt pre compressor water injection works. It is just that a turbo is an expensive component and eventually your going to erode the blades to where it off sets any gains. If you have money to buy turbos that is fine.

The engine in this style car is built with a 100K KM life expectancy. Vehicles are junked here as fast as some people sell cars in the US. The car will get at most another 10K KM from me, and will either be sold or scrapped. The turbo is a 60,000 yen component, and is made to wear out. The lack of oil changes by the PO as evidenced by the crap on the bottom of the oil cap and the varnish on the rocker cover is much more likely to kill a turbo, and quicker, than the slow performance degradation of an inefficient wheel. Friend just last year had a turbo take a crap on her because she forgot to change the oil. Lack of oil to a turbo is a great way to melt the CHRA.

Originally Posted by ConnClark

The point about the warm air intake and a turbo is that it drops the efficiency of the compressor. For the 2.0 liter engine case in the article an increase from 77 degrees F to 122 degrees F increased the load on the engine by 11.9 HP or about 8% of the engines power.

I am looking more into this right now. At 6 psi the temps will drop with the addition of the fluid, and I honestly don't think that the temps will be that much higher than with the current setup that is just a vent behind the headlight.