Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder
Is it colder outside now than before ?
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It was 15°-20°C. The 0.52 LPH idle consumption was observed at many diferent outdoor temperatures, both hot and cold.
Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder
The normal (warm) operating conditions for 0W30 and 5W30 are essentially the same.
0W just flows and lubes better when cold.
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With my coolant heater and oil pan heating pad I usually have a preheated engine in the winter, and when I add some insulation it'll hold heat for longer for return trips from errands. So I'm not sure if the extra cost of 0w30 is worth it in my case. Until recently we usually used the car for long trips, with a cold start after 2-5 days before returning home. Now there'll be more short trips around the city, some maybe at short notice.
I read some more about Total's 5w30 and 0w30 oils and found out that the 0w30 has more sulphur in it, which disqualifies it for DPF and EURO4 diesels. My old lump is non-DPF EURO3, so it should be OK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arragonis
How is your battery ? Is the car charging it back to a specified level seeing as it gets little use ?
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I have a small solar trickle charger and I checked 3-4 weeks ago that battery voltage is 12.4-12.6V in the early morning (before the sun hits the PV). I have no problems starting after 1-2 weeks. In fact, the engine seems more reluctant to start after warming up when I kill it at a red light
Maybe there is an electrical load which the alternater can't keep up with? But then idle consumption would be higher than 0.62 LPH - rear window defrost and headlights raise the consumption to over 0.75.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arragonis
could the broken AC be dragging or be broken in "on" mode somewhere?
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The problem with the A/C is that the refrigerant has leaked out (again
). It takes about 2 months to leak out after recharging. The climate control won't energize the compressor's clutch pulley if refrigerant pressure is too low - it doesn't start even if I manually press the A/C button.