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Old 08-31-2011, 04:32 PM   #201 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
Push in the clutch - sorted.
Tell HER that
The clutch adds a whole new dimension to driving. And not everyone can do the math (2 feet != 3 pedals).
The Yaris at the driving school also had a clutch, but when she starts freaking out she only thinks about stopping the car, the clutch is something abstract which doesn't exist at that moment.

But on a (less) serious note, I've got to get her back behind the wheel. Now that she can't drink, maybe she could be the designated driver, every now and then?

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Old 08-31-2011, 05:08 PM   #202 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
Tell HER that
The clutch adds a whole new dimension to driving. And not everyone can do the math (2 feet != 3 pedals).
The Yaris at the driving school also had a clutch, but when she starts freaking out she only thinks about stopping the car, the clutch is something abstract which doesn't exist at that moment.

But on a (less) serious note, I've got to get her back behind the wheel. Now that she can't drink, maybe she could be the designated driver, every now and then?
My mother has a friend that faild her driving test for CROSSING her feet to use the right foot on the clutch..

good shout on the designated driver though
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:32 AM   #203 (permalink)
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While driving two days ago I noticed that my fuel consumption at idle is higher than normal, ie 0.62-0.64 LPH instead of the usual 0.52-0.54 LPH. Everything was the same as usual: the only power draw were the LED DRLs and the cabin fan at lowest setting. A/C was off (broken).
On the way back I noticed it again and kept an eye on the SGII. Idle consumption was at 0.62-0.64 even though the engine had been up to operating temperature (78°-80°C) for more than 10km/15min. Only after about 20-25 minutes did it finally drop to its normal ~0.52 LPH, and I noticed then that the coolant temp was up to 88°C, but it stayed at 0.52 even when the engine cooled back down.

Any ideas what could be going on?

One thing that crossed my mind was increased internal friction, but my oil level is OK. In fact, it's been two years since I changed it and I haven't had to add a single drop. (Yeah, I know I should change the oil more often, but I just plain forgot. You can yell at me now. I'll have it replaced with fresh 5W30 before winter.) Could it be the oil?

Oh, and can I use a thinner oil than the 5W30 (Total Quartz Ineo) that PSA strongly recommends? I found a 0W30 (Total Quartz 9000 Energy), but I wonder if it will protect the fussy engine/turbo as well, especially with the higher temps I see with the winter grille block on? 0W30 is also about 40% more expensive
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:49 AM   #204 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
While driving two days ago I noticed that my fuel consumption at idle is higher than normal
Is it colder outside now than before ?

Quote:
One thing that crossed my mind was increased internal friction, but my oil level is OK.
Anything on the engine could cause it to have a bit more friction or use more fuel - from pulleys with their bearings wearing, to leaking air intakes, to a stuck EGR valve, to malfunctioning injectors (you'd most likely see that in the oil level though).

The SG does show a higher load (LOD) across the board with higher oil level.
Mine is once again getting to the highest level I'm comfortable (though not happy) with.

Quote:
In fact, it's been two years since I changed it and I haven't had to add a single drop.
Oil degenerates over time when exposed to oxygen.
Even if the oil level is OK, that doesn't mean the oil is still as good as it was.
Conditions where the engine doesn't fully get up to temperature (say relatively short hops in cold winters) are particularly hard on the oil.


Quote:
Oh, and can I use a thinner oil than the 5W30 (Total Quartz Ineo) that PSA strongly recommends? I found a 0W30 (Total Quartz 9000 Energy), but I wonder if it will protect the fussy engine/turbo as well, especially with the higher temps I see with the winter grille block on? 0W30 is also about 40% more expensive
Volvo is or was using 0W30 in their 1.6 HDi engines, especially the Drive-versions.
Mine started out with 5W30, and was later changed to 0W30.
Then Volvo changed it back again, but I decided to stay with 0W30 as the engine runs noticeably smoother on 0W30 when cold. I like that because my car isn't garaged.
In summer I can't tell, but in winter I could tell when they didn't put in 0W30 before the bill arrived.

Pricing is similar to 5W30 here, more variable with brand than with weight.

The normal (warm) operating conditions for 0W30 and 5W30 are essentially the same.
0W just flows and lubes better when cold.
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:30 PM   #205 (permalink)
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How is your battery ? Is the car charging it back to a specified level seeing as it gets little use ?

EDIT - could the broken AC be dragging or be broken in "on" mode somewhere?
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Old 09-07-2011, 03:58 AM   #206 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
Is it colder outside now than before ?
It was 15°-20°C. The 0.52 LPH idle consumption was observed at many diferent outdoor temperatures, both hot and cold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
The normal (warm) operating conditions for 0W30 and 5W30 are essentially the same.
0W just flows and lubes better when cold.
With my coolant heater and oil pan heating pad I usually have a preheated engine in the winter, and when I add some insulation it'll hold heat for longer for return trips from errands. So I'm not sure if the extra cost of 0w30 is worth it in my case. Until recently we usually used the car for long trips, with a cold start after 2-5 days before returning home. Now there'll be more short trips around the city, some maybe at short notice.

I read some more about Total's 5w30 and 0w30 oils and found out that the 0w30 has more sulphur in it, which disqualifies it for DPF and EURO4 diesels. My old lump is non-DPF EURO3, so it should be OK.

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Originally Posted by Arragonis View Post
How is your battery ? Is the car charging it back to a specified level seeing as it gets little use ?
I have a small solar trickle charger and I checked 3-4 weeks ago that battery voltage is 12.4-12.6V in the early morning (before the sun hits the PV). I have no problems starting after 1-2 weeks. In fact, the engine seems more reluctant to start after warming up when I kill it at a red light Maybe there is an electrical load which the alternater can't keep up with? But then idle consumption would be higher than 0.62 LPH - rear window defrost and headlights raise the consumption to over 0.75.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arragonis View Post
could the broken AC be dragging or be broken in "on" mode somewhere?
The problem with the A/C is that the refrigerant has leaked out (again). It takes about 2 months to leak out after recharging. The climate control won't energize the compressor's clutch pulley if refrigerant pressure is too low - it doesn't start even if I manually press the A/C button.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:56 AM   #207 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
Now there'll be more short trips around the city, some maybe at short notice.
In that case I'd switch to 0w30 - if you can find some at a reasonable price.

Over here, same quality oils are similarly priced , regardless of weight.
Doesn't mean these fully synth oils are cheap though.

In the manual, Volvo specifically list 0w30 as the preferred oil under unfavourable conditions.

Quote:
I read some more about Total's 5w30 and 0w30 oils and found out that the 0w30 has more sulphur in it, which disqualifies it for DPF and EURO4 diesels. My old lump is non-DPF EURO3, so it should be OK.
I'd use one of the low-sulphur 0w30 oils available.
Sulphur oxides are very harmful, less sulphur content (oil or fuel) in a combustion engine is a good thing.


Quote:
In fact, the engine seems more reluctant to start after warming up when I kill it at a red light
That'd be weird for a diesel.
Does it have to crank harder or ???

Quote:
Maybe there is an electrical load which the alternater can't keep up with?
It could be, but why would it start better during a cold start ?
If the battery isn't recharging sufficiently during driving, it likely won't be sufficiently charged at the end of a trip either, would it ?

Quote:
The problem with the A/C is that the refrigerant has leaked out (again). It takes about 2 months to leak out after recharging.
If you ever get it refilled, have them put in some UV-reactive leak finding fluid as well. It stains the area around the leak.
Volvo puts it in as standard (marked as such in the vicinity of the refrigerant), maybe Peugeot does as well ?
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:05 PM   #208 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
Over here, same quality oils are similarly priced , regardless of weight.
Doesn't mean these fully synth oils are cheap though.
I can probably find 0w30 slightly cheaper than Total, but I read that Total oils are engineered for PSA engines. On the other hand, Elf, Castrol, etc., probably won't make a difference in a 6 year old engine... Could you remind me which make oil you have?

Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
That'd be weird for a diesel.
Does it have to crank harder or ???
The engine being harder to start when warm may be totally subjective: in traffic I'm in more of a hurry to start and go than in my driveway, so at home I may not count every millisecond it takes to fire up. Though maybe when the engine is warm the ECU delivers less fuel at start-up?
What I do notice while panicking that a BMW or Golf III will outrace me when the light turns green is that I don't have instant-on engine starting, it catches on the 2nd or 3rd turn. Maybe I need to look for a new starter motor? Maybe upgrade to a 24V unit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
If you ever get it refilled, have them put in some UV-reactive leak finding fluid as well. It stains the area around the leak.
Volvo puts it in as standard (marked as such in the vicinity of the refrigerant), maybe Peugeot does as well ?
The last recharge (last June) was colored, but I haven't had time to look for the leak under the engine or inside the dashboard. I don't even want to think about taking the latter apart
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e·co·mod·ding: the art of turning vehicles into what they should be

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Old 09-08-2011, 02:30 AM   #209 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
I can probably find 0w30 slightly cheaper than Total, but I read that Total oils are engineered for PSA engines. On the other hand, Elf, Castrol, etc., probably won't make a difference in a 6 year old engine...
Total and Elf are part of the same group - TotalFinaElf, or Total in short.

Quote:
Could you remind me which make oil you have?
Volvo Belgium started with Castrol
Performance 5w30,
Magnatec Professional 5w30,
Professional Longtec 0w30

Volvo switched to Shell last year
Helix Plus S 5w40 (! while this was in the engine, the DPF misery started) Helix Ultra AC 0w30 (what's in it now, also called Ultra AS 0W-30)
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:52 AM   #210 (permalink)
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Thermostat sticky causing some extra energy needed for the water pump ? Water pump itself on the way out with little use ?

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