Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris D.
I run a catch can, could care less on what it looks like and don't pop the hood to show anyone anything because I don't care..
I got results, yours may vary, believe the hype or go the other way with it, makes me no difference  |
Well said! If people don't like it (or their research shows otherwise), they don't have to have one. As for me, it seems like an easy decision to have one, and it doesn't look fancy in the least.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh8loop
Thanks for the kind words. This system I have adapted is similar to what the LandRover Diesel guys have installed as factory equipment on their vehicles with one exception. I added the lower IC bleed to somewhat passively addres the lower IC buildup of oil which is perfectly normal for these vehicles. So the technology is not new, and I cannot take credit for it-I've just massaged it to meet my needs on this particular vehicle.
I'm not sure exactly what the comparison would be from an equivalent displacement of a gasoline engine and a diesel engine in terms of CCV flow. My guess would be that the diesel(due to higher compression) would have more. I know that if the diesel engine is equipped with a mechanical vacuum pump which vents into the crankcase then that does increase total CCV flow.
As you mention condensation can become an issue and to prevent that my design goal was to use short direct runs of piping to keep the CCV gasses hot so I don't drop out the water vapor and leave it in vapor form. I live in Florida, so I have more flexibility in this aspect. Others that are in the colder climates would want to keep things short, direct, insulated, and close to engine heat radiating components(just like BMW did on the X5 engine with this separator) to ensure little or no water vapor condensation happens.
I also use high quality oils to help keep the engine component life maximized, especially since I am running my "Hybrid" 205 Deg F thermostat. My car was designed for 195 F operation, and so I had to fabricate my own thermostat for it. So far 3-4 MPG increase from the higher temps, and from recent lower and upper end inspection no adverse effects have been noted.
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It's clear that you have done your homework with other designs and adapted them to your own application. This is exactly what EcoModding is about
: Research, Implementation, and Reporting.
I have a warmer thermostat as well. Over the course of ~80K miles with the mod, I haven't observed any ill-effects either. With higher intake temps and advanced timing (and perhaps, in addition to the hotter coolant), the use of premium fuel has been needed to eliminate detonation.
With ambient temps that range from -5 to 105F, the extra 10-degrees help in the colder months (especially with an efficient cooling system -- a radiator block is very much needed this time of year as well). Otherwise, the car is aging well, but needs some extra maintenance to keep things running efficiently, like any older vehicle.
My main concern has been with the (still original) automatic transmission experiencing higher temps. As a result, I did invest in a fully synthetic fluid flush/replace. Even with it hacked to shift the torque converter manually, it still has a firm shift with no excessive slippage or shudder (knock on wood).
Best of luck with your mods and research -- I look forward to any results to share
RH77