Quote:
Originally Posted by deathtrain
This is just me but why not cut your circle in half. The first half run it with the alternator off. the second half run it with it on. this way it will charge up on the back half.
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That's an idea, but I think it would be better to do both legs with the alt disabled and then charge the battery some by idling for a few minutes in between runs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dplane
Not to add to the confusion but if I have a say in this,I would vote for the alternator enabled for all runs and hope that the voltage regulator plays a fair game for all runs.
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The problem was that it was not running equally. And I'm not confident it would next time. I know their are parameters for the ECU but the charging cycles for the alt looked unequal watching my volt meter run after run.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dplane
When the alternator is disabled and you start with a freshly charged battery,the fuel pump is running at a higher output,using more amps,producing higher fuel rail pressure and the car could run a tad richer than in later runs where the battery voltage is sagging and the fuel pump output is significantly less than with a fresh battery! ( think of how the headlights dim with sagging voltage).
I realize your car has fuel pressure regulator and the ECU has control over fine tuning fuel ratio but it still has an effect.
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How low do you think voltage would have to go to have such an effect? Across the full 30-40 miles I would drive, I might expect battery voltage to dip from 12.5v - 12.0v or maybe 11.8v. Still, my alt delete seems associated
with a 3+ mpg improvement. Could fuel rail pressure really rival that impact?
If I did something to recharge the battery in between runs, that would deal with the problem entirely, correct? How much recharging to you think? What voltage level should I look to maintain?