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Originally Posted by brucepick
Wow - great drive, indeed!
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Thanks.
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Originally Posted by brucepick
Were you able to start the alt while the engine was running??
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Yes. But if I shut it down again the voltage meter would continue to read 14+ volts. But if I had turned the alt back off, killed the injectors, and then bump started, the voltage would be back down to 12.6 or 12.2 or whatever.
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Originally Posted by brucepick
Get a junkyard to sell me a connector from a matching car. It's female, and goes onto the alternator. When I'm done attaching what I want to the four pigtails on the junkyard connector, it will go on to my alternator.
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That's clever. I was able to do my splicing from above, but it was very awkward (and I have long thing hands and fingers).
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Originally Posted by brucepick
Tomorrow I'll see about pulling off the alt connector again, to verify that it will disable the alt and not give a check engine light. But I suspect that will work fine, as long as I can get it pulled off.
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That's how I have been disabling my alt these last 5 months. No CEL ever. It will work perfectly. Whenever you need the alt again, you'll just need to plug it back in. That's fun when the engine is hot!
But it will work. I was at a bone yard today. The only sixth gen civic was picked completely clean. If I go to another before you get your connector, I'll see about grabbing one for ya! Snip snip... in the mail!
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Originally Posted by oil pan 4
Cutting the power going between the exciter and the field winding is the safest way to cut power output from the big brushless alternators I work on. All the big generators have a small generator built in that powers the main field windings, thats the exciter.
Car alternators use external power, brushes and communtator to excite their field windings, its more compact and cheaper this way.
Its also easy to sever this type of field winding connection.
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This would mean getting inside the alternator?