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Old 03-18-2012, 09:31 PM   #5583 (permalink)
okie00
EV Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 7

unknown - '95 Ford Windstar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
I added the push-pull feature in the software so that if a couple pins stop going high and low at 16kHz, the hardware will disable the mosfet driver, since that would most likely happen if the microcontroller crashes. It was just a single line of code that's required to run at 16kHz, so it eats up almost no processing power. I was going to add a "microcontroller_crashed_fault in the code", until I realized, the micro wouldn't know if the micro crashed! hahaha.

I also added programmable max current. the variable is called max-current. haha. You can input anything you want in the range 0-9999 real life amps. That means if you set it to 120, full throttle will be 120 amps. I double checked all the pins to make sure everything is good.

The controller is 99.9% done:

It's 6 isolated supplies, so 6 separate pwm signals that all have their own shielded twisted pair (with ground) cable going right to the input of the respective optocoupler.

I think someone was asking about the schematics. I'll post everything once it's all working. The wiki is seriously jacked up right now though. It's been taken over by a weird spam-bot.

I've got an updated schematic and layout that removes the VERY EXPENSIVE DC-DC converter (like almost $18) which feeds the inputs to the 6 line filters, and replaces it with a homemade DC-DC based on the very popular MC34063A

The careful observer will note that it costs like $0.63 cents. hahaha. The rest of the nick-nacks you need to make it work are another $2-$3 or so.
Thats a very nice looking unit, thanks for all your hard work

What size is the completed unit going to be?
I was looking for a case to put the controller in
what size is the boards and bus bar your using?
What is the max output volts going to be?

thank you
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