Quote:
Originally Posted by steffen707
You can probably use a nylon locking nut that would stop it from vibrating loose. After testing my ground switch and finding that its still charging a little but survived several days, i'm thinking of just running a 4 wire switch all the way from the alternator to the car and back to the alternator. Shut off all 4 wires and start the car. Then the alternator will be off. If you already have the car running, just switch the car off at the ignition key or use your fuel injector cutoff switch to kill the motor, turn the 4 wire switch off, and then bump start the car.
Also, I think if the alternator is off and the engine running and you want to start the alternator again, just flip the switch and it should start working on the fly. You would only need to do this when you're on a long trip with the alternator off and monitoring battery voltage you see the battery is getting too low, just flip the alternator back on and it will charge up the batt for you to safely get to your destination and then plug in your on board charger.
I've got Sunday off so i might report back on this then, otherwise I might be able to work on it tonight as the fiance works till midnight.
I went to the junk yard and cut off an alternator 4pin plug, i'm going to make a jumper harness for a nice factory look.
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I'm definitely interested in seeing the results of your testing if you're able to get time for it.
I also got a couple junkyard 4 pin plugs but found the area so cramped I was never able to insert my own wiring magic between the alt and the existing 4 pin connector. It should be somewhat easier if you disconnect [and tape over] the original alt charging cable at the alt and run one direct from the battery, approaching the alt from above. Be careful of that cable, it's hot. Really you need to disconnect the ground before you mess with it; I had a loud spark.
Remember that having the alt charge up a battery that's pretty well discharged works to defeat the purpose of the alt delete mod. This is especially true because the alt's mechanical load, as seen by the engine, is somehow proportional to the amount of charging it has to do. A depleted battery will present a higher amps load to the alternator which will be a bigger drain on your fuel.
I got out of that by using two batteries. The deep cycle COULD be charged or maintained by the alt but I don't use it that way. The regular starting battery is in place. It's wired to the starter so it does that job. The deep cycle battery does everything else.
I'll use the car in it's original configuration if I need to do a long road trip, or say I've already driven the limit of what the deep cycle can handle and now I need to run headlights for a half hour or so, which the deep cycle can't do after being mostly depleted. So I'll switch the alt back on and reconnect the 4 pin, and I'll flip a couple other switches to run the entire car off the alt + starter battery. The deep cycle goes "out to lunch" until I'm able to charge it up properly from wall current.