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Old 04-10-2012, 12:19 AM   #51 (permalink)
California98Civic
Cyborg ECU
 
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
Posts: 6,299

Black and Green - '98 Honda Civic DX Coupe
Team Honda
90 day: 66.42 mpg (US)

Black and Red - '00 Nashbar Custom built eBike
90 day: 3671.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 2,373
Thanked 2,172 Times in 1,469 Posts
Wow is this thorough! Thanks very much for offering a more solid sense of the types of gains to be had from these "smart alternator" switching mechanisms. BTW, to answer your question, I am the ecomodder you referred to here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by steffen707 View Post
4. Another ecomodder (sorry don't remember who, please let me know and i'll edit) told me that he found out that if you disconnect the "IG" and the "L" wire this disables the alternator. He thought that the "L" circuit was providing enough power to energize the field windings. Well he was right. I tested this by starting the car with both "IG" and "L" disconnected and it operated just like test 1. I also tried starting the car with just "IG" disconnected, removed jumper cables, the car ran fine, then disconnected "L" on the fly, the car imediately starting running super rough like test 1.
That's my set up; we discussed it in PM and on thread. If you link to my cut-off switch build, which describes how to do this, I'd appreciate it. But it is not important.

Thanks!

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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.



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