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Old 08-13-2012, 08:10 PM   #143 (permalink)
beatr911
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: West Coast, USA
Posts: 516

B2300 - '96 Mazda B2300 SE

Focus - '05 Ford Focus ST

The red car - '00 Honda Insight
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bschloop, you are on a budget so value is what you are prioritizing. As in building mechanical systems (which is by business) optimizing the existing systems are always the lowest hanging fruit. Sometimes new, more efficient tech is worthwhile but it's usually when the existing system is due to be replaced anyway.

In addition to optimizing your aerodynamic package...

Suggest getting the jettng right, this means getting it lean enough for good FE but not so lean that motor life will be compromised. Use an old O2 sensor, they usually don't quit, just get too slow for the computer to use but are still plenty fast for our eyes reading a volt meter. You can read these with a $1.99 Harbor Freight multimeter with relative accuracy. EFI is really great and expensive but carbs are darn good if they are dialed in right.

Reduce mechanical, air and exhaust flow friction where ever possible. A well lubed non o-ring chain. Slightly over inflated tires, de restricted intake and exhaust (since you'll be WOT at least part of the time). Use a top shelf light viscosity synthetic engine oil (Shell T6).

Set valve lash to a little over maximum. This increases compression a little and reduces valve overlap a little. Free.

Optimize the ignition. Instead of letting the power go through the ignition switch, kill switch and all those connectors and wire (dropping voltage along the way) before it gets to the CDI unit use a relay to get power directly from the battery allowing the switches to control the relay. Relays are a couple bucks and can easily get you a few thousand more volts at the plug.

Sparkplug gap. Open it up at .005 increments until you notice power loss at high speed/high load. Then close up .005. Use a new spark plug.

Pull the head, lap in the valves for better compression. If you mill the head cam timing will be retarded biasing it toward high speed operation unless you find a way to adjust it back.

Use LEDs wherever possible to reduce parasitic energy drag. The stator won't put a drag on the motor if there is no load. Themocouples will produce power, but they are a very expensive way to do it.

If you could even improve further the airflow around the engine, maybe ducting to the vacuum at the back to pull more air, the fan may never come on. High pressure in front, low pressure in rear.

Make disks for the spoked wheels, aka fans. Turn your pedal bike upside down and turn the pedals fast, all that airflow coming off the tire is from the spokes. Make disks out of coroplast and secure it really well, you won't be worrying about side winds on the disks because you have a fairing dealing with that.

BTW I found my 1984 issue of Cycle World that has like 4 pages of text on the Vetter event. Cycle World used the 185 that you are using and Charlie Perenthian used it also. Cycle World got like over 100 without a full fairing. Charlie got 282 with it (at 55mph posted speeds).

Keep up the great work. Your efforts are truly inspiring to a great many of us.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to beatr911 For This Useful Post:
Bruce (08-13-2012), bschloop (08-14-2012)