2012 Vetter Challenger Build ( 1981 Yamaha SR185 streamliner) - Page 15 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

renault_megane_dci · 08-13-2012, 07:50 AM

Changing only the exhaust timing is only possible on twin cam engines wich I believe the SR is not.

Advancing cam is still possible on single cam engines but the potential is narrower since you also mess with the inlet where the valve is lifted just before TDC so you don't want the valve and piston meeting each other ...

bschloop · 08-13-2012, 02:16 PM

It seems that changing/optimizing cam timing is something that I don't have the expertise, or tools for. I am considering an ecotrons fuel injection kit, but recent financial setbacks make it seem like that is also currently on hold. I am working on finishing the bodywork, since that will be the lowest cost, highest gain area. if I can reduce the weight of my fairing and tail, as well as smoothing and rounding all the surfaces I should see some gains. I have had an other idea about cooling, and would like to test it. I will be making a cowling similar to the ones found on stationary power equipment (generators, snowblowers, etc...) and fitting a more powerful blower. By this, I hope to eliminate the need for cooling ducts in the front fairing. I am also toying with the idea of Thermoelectric Generators on the exhaust to offset the electricity consumed by the fan.

The 2013 vetter challenger build starts.......NOW.

beatr911 · 08-13-2012, 07:10 PM

bschloop, you are on a budget so value is what you are prioritizing. As in building mechanical systems (which is by business) optimizing the existing systems are always the lowest hanging fruit. Sometimes new, more efficient tech is worthwhile but it's usually when the existing system is due to be replaced anyway.

In addition to optimizing your aerodynamic package...

Suggest getting the jettng right, this means getting it lean enough for good FE but not so lean that motor life will be compromised. Use an old O2 sensor, they usually don't quit, just get too slow for the computer to use but are still plenty fast for our eyes reading a volt meter. You can read these with a $1.99 Harbor Freight multimeter with relative accuracy. EFI is really great and expensive but carbs are darn good if they are dialed in right.

Reduce mechanical, air and exhaust flow friction where ever possible. A well lubed non o-ring chain. Slightly over inflated tires, de restricted intake and exhaust (since you'll be WOT at least part of the time). Use a top shelf light viscosity synthetic engine oil (Shell T6).

Set valve lash to a little over maximum. This increases compression a little and reduces valve overlap a little. Free.

Optimize the ignition. Instead of letting the power go through the ignition switch, kill switch and all those connectors and wire (dropping voltage along the way) before it gets to the CDI unit use a relay to get power directly from the battery allowing the switches to control the relay. Relays are a couple bucks and can easily get you a few thousand more volts at the plug.

Sparkplug gap. Open it up at .005 increments until you notice power loss at high speed/high load. Then close up .005. Use a new spark plug.

Pull the head, lap in the valves for better compression. If you mill the head cam timing will be retarded biasing it toward high speed operation unless you find a way to adjust it back.

Use LEDs wherever possible to reduce parasitic energy drag. The stator won't put a drag on the motor if there is no load. Themocouples will produce power, but they are a very expensive way to do it.

If you could even improve further the airflow around the engine, maybe ducting to the vacuum at the back to pull more air, the fan may never come on. High pressure in front, low pressure in rear.

Make disks for the spoked wheels, aka fans. Turn your pedal bike upside down and turn the pedals fast, all that airflow coming off the tire is from the spokes. Make disks out of coroplast and secure it really well, you won't be worrying about side winds on the disks because you have a fairing dealing with that.

BTW I found my 1984 issue of Cycle World that has like 4 pages of text on the Vetter event. Cycle World used the 185 that you are using and Charlie Perenthian used it also. Cycle World got like over 100 without a full fairing. Charlie got 282 with it (at 55mph posted speeds).

Keep up the great work. Your efforts are truly inspiring to a great many of us.

bschloop · 08-14-2012, 08:35 AM

Thanks, I will attempt to include some of those optimizations over the winter once the bike is off the road and can again be disassembled. I planned on having someone help me with jetting anyway, hopefully I can also get him to help with the other stuff. I am already using nothing but LEDs on this bike, but I think the stator needs to be rewound, since it doesn't charge all that well. if I can supplement it with either thermocouples, or solar cells, I might go with a lighter winding for reduced load. If I remember correctly, the stator on a bike is always running at full capacity since it is a permanent magnet generator. I ordered a cheap peltier on ebay to play around with, it cost $6, we'll see how well it works, and go from there.

beatr911 · 08-17-2012, 02:20 PM

The stator will not put a full load on the engine at all times. Just when the load calls for it. Think of an electric motor. Spinning by itsself it will draw few amps, when a load is put on the end, amperage increases. Same thing here except in reverse.

Peltier? Water wheel?

bschloop · 08-18-2012, 02:48 PM

peltier= large thermocouple, I want to try a little waste heat energy recovery off of the exhaust.

beatr911 · 08-19-2012, 09:27 AM

Oh, heh, yeah. I've been looking at microhydro and forgot about that. Googling, I found that the Seebeck effect is for producing power and is the opposite of the Peltier effect. Same module though I think.

This is an interesting waste heat recovery technology, have you found an inexpensive source?

bschloop · 08-20-2012, 08:15 AM

Quote:

have you found an inexpensive source?

$6 per module for one that seems it might work. I am waiting for it to arrive, then I will do a few experiments to see how many watts it produces, as well as what temps are required. that will tell me whether or not it is viable.

bschloop · 09-17-2012, 04:40 PM

the fairing work is coming along steadily, and I will hopefully be working on a mold for the tail in a couple of weeks. I need to put an order in for some Fiberglass and Resin, and that usually takes about a week for shipping. I will again be using the UV cure resin, and I think I will use 10oz cloth to build up the mold. looking at the shape it seems that a three piece tail will work nicely. two separate lower pieces, and a lid. it will also need at least one internal piece to cover the wheel, as well as mounting points for attachment to the cycle.

offalot · 09-18-2012, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bschloop

the fairing work is coming along steadily, and I will hopefully be working on a mold for the tail in a couple of weeks. I need to put an order in for some Fiberglass and Resin, and that usually takes about a week for shipping. I will again be using the UV cure resin, and I think I will use 10oz cloth to build up the mold. looking at the shape it seems that a three piece tail will work nicely. two separate lower pieces, and a lid. it will also need at least one internal piece to cover the wheel, as well as mounting points for attachment to the cycle.

Too bad we weren't able to collaborate earlier, I have a huge roll of fiberglass I would get rid of for cheap, I could have brought it to mid Ohio with me. Well, if you ever get down this way again...
Now you got me curious about these peltier units. i'm going to have to check them out.