Hi - welcome to the forum!
Sounds like you've got a lot of knowledge.
For instance...
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Originally Posted by RobertISaar
when the engine enters highway fuel(you guys seem to call it lean burn) mode to account for the slower combustion speed of AFRs leaner than stoich
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I'm curious to know more about this 'highway fuel mode'. (Which cars, how far from stoich / 14.7:1 ?)
The lean burn you see talked about typically here is the Honda stuff, where ratios go quite far away from stoichiometric - e.g. the 1st generation Insight goes as far as 23 to 1 aided by swirl in the cylinder induced by leaving one intake valve closed under light load. (Not sure on the ratios available in the Civic HX & VX models). When lean burn kicks in on the Insight, MPG goes up ~25 mpg.
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i accelerated at a slower pace than what a lot of members here have implied to be optimal (something like ~80% load, which BTW, what is "load" based off of, vacuum?).
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FYI, that only works if you can also control RPM (manual transmission) to keep engine speed relatively low while under relatively high load. (It also only works if you NEVER have to brake or otherwise slow down soon after a high load/low RPM acceleration event, otherwise you just tossed more fuel out the tailpipe than a slower acceleration event would have burned.)
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so, does anybody have any suggestions on where to start?
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I always start by recommending instant MPG instrumentation. Your car's entry says "custom" there. Vac gauge? Anything else? Ideally you want a resettable MPG gauge so you can start playing the game.
(High score on typically repeated routes, and also potentially for testing mods.)
Aside from that, given where you live (Michigan), and the time of year we're sliding towards, I'd start looking into mods that address winter conditions like a partial grille block (also helps reduce aero drag); block heater. If you spend most of your time above 40 mph, focus on the aero mods for sure.