Welcome to my Metro project!
This car was on it's way to the crusher after it's diagnosis of engine repairs needed and other issues the car had from being neglected by the former owner. I don't know what reasoning there is behind this, but I just had to have this car and save her from becoming scrap metal. I knew she had great potential so I decided to rebuild her and bring her back to life again.
I decided to start my very own thread on the progress of what I have done to save fuel with an already fuel efficient car. So far, I have increased fuel mileage on this car from 37 MPG to a whopping 54 MPG and will get even more miles per gallon after more repairs and mods are done. I have lots of pictures, so I will be updating this as I get those pics hosted and do a "Start to Finish" thread here. To get the most MPG, one must start with a properly running engine.
This is a 1998 Chevy Metro 1.0L 5 speed base model.
Her name is Christine.............
First off, I got the car for almost nothing ($75.00) because of no compression in Cylinder #1 so I did my research and found it needed new exhaust valves. This means the head needs pulled to see the problem. First thing is to take pictures of all the vacuum lines and hoses so when you get to putting it together, you have a reference point.
The most common issue with these 3 Cylinder engines for a dead cylinder in burnt exhaust valves from either timing or clogged EGR ports or other issues.
This guide can be used for all 3 Cylinder Suzuki engines.
Get the car in a suitable work area.
Set engine so Cyl #1 is at top dead center (TDC).
Disconnect battery.
Drain the oil and coolant. (17mm drain plug)
Remove upper rad hose from engine side. (squeeze clamp)
Remove throttle cable and all attached vacuum lines. (12MM locknut & squeeze clamps)
Mark plugs and wires and remove wires, cap and rotor. (8MM bolts)
Mark distributor and remove. (T40 or 12MM)
Remove the air cleaner housing and tube. (10MM bolt and nut)
Loosen the alternator bolts (one on top and 2 below) and remove belt. (12MM bolts)
Remove the water pump pulley. (10MM bolts)
Remove the crank pulley. (5 8mm bolts - don't remove center bolt)
Remove timing belt cover. (8 10MM bolts and loom holders)
Check and correct timing marks and note rotation.
Loosen tensioner and remove belt and mark belt rotation if re-using it. (12MM bolt)
Inspect water pump and replace if questionable (wanna do this again?)
Remove exhaust manifold bolts and use heat if tight & pull away from head. (10MM bolts and nuts)
Remove the 4 valve cover nuts and strike the seals off. (10 MM)
Remove the head bolts with a breaker bar from outside in. (8 10MM 12 point bolts)
Get a buddy to lift up head & intake assy and remove vacuum lines, grounds, fuel lines, etc)
Look on cylinder head for the small oil check valve and don't loose it!
Place head in a clean work area with lots of room to work.
Put rags in cylinder holes and clean mating surface on head, pistons & exhaust manifold.
Clean head surface and clean out the EGR port.
Remove EGR valve and clean all ports.
Remove the camshaft bolts and cam and remove the gear and replace seal. (6 10MM bolts/studs - 17MM cam bolt)
Remove the lifters put in order.
Use a valve spring compressor with adapter and remove the valves (keep parts ordered and use your buddy)
Clean surfaces and lap in all the valves (intake & exhaust) with lapping compound and re-install.
Re-install lifters and camshaft. (use torque specs from a manual)
Double check all of your work and gasket mating surfaces.
Remove intake from head and replace gasket. (optional)
Get your buddy to help you re-install the head and double check all connections!
Torque all 8 head bolts to specs and order with info from manual.
Install a new timing belt (or used one like a dummy) and check timing marks.
Re-assemble the same way you took it apart and please double check vacuum lines since there is a lot of them.
Clear all DTC if you forgot to disconnect battery.
Fill oil and coolant and fire it up!
Now you may have to set the timing, so reference your manual!
Let the car get to operating temperature and check for leaks and burp the coolant.
Test drive and watch the coolant temp since an air pocket may occur.
Sorry about the quality of those pics, but the lighting was real bad and my helper taking pictures must of been having the beer shakes going on. More updating to come.
Head Gasket Kit = $89.00
Timing Belt = $15.00
Oil and filter = $10.00
New Coolant = $7.00
3 Exhaust valves = $24.00
Total cost for parts = $145.00
Total Labor time = 7.0 HRS which was my time.