Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson
Thanks for all the responses!
Daox: I was digging through my pile of scrap materials, and there was a small piece of yellow foil board, like what you are in using. I said to myself "Ah ha! I bet that's urethane in there!"
NeilBlanchard: I did some searching on a prop-building forum and saw a demo of using PVA glue (plain white school glue basically...) as a coating over foam for building Iron Man armor. It looked REALLY good.
I'm planning on doing a test with white glue over foam and see how it works.
I DID do a test with aluminum foil, and it worked well for preventing damage to the foam, but as was said, it doesn't bond to the foam at all then. Would work fine for mold-making!
|
*The polyisocyanrurate foam is chemically similar to urethane,so polyester resin is okay with it.
*Any of the 'Styrofoams',as mentioned,can be sealed with Elmer's glue,Elmer's Carpenter's Glue,or Titebond,ahead of using polyester resin.
*Polyurethane Marine Spar Varnish can also be used on Styrofoam to create a block,allowing the use of polyester resin and polyester-based body fillers such as Bondo brand.
*Aluminum foil can be squeegied on over a coating of general-purpose axle grease,directly on a finished automotive finish to create a bleed-proof block and release mechanism for wet-layups applied directly over a vehicle when integrating spoilers,tails,and whatnot.The foil itself can receive multiple carnuba waxings along with a coat of polyvinyl alcohol release agent prior to laying up to release the foil from the part after the cure.
After the 'part' is completed,you slip it off the car,peel the foil away,then GUNK the area to remove the grease.