[brucepick]

What you need:

Heater Unit: ZeroStart circulating type heater #330-8001 or #330-8002
(1) Tee model 28113 from Kats Heaters, this tees a 5/8" hose into a 1" radiator hose.
(1) Tee for 5/8" hose into 5/8" hose. Must be compact, not one with fittings for 5/8 AND 3/4 combined in one tee. Mine is by Gates.
(2) pieces of heater hose, 5/8" inner diameter, one each 2' and 3' long
(1) 6' length of Armaflex closed cell pipe insulation, 7/8" I.D., about $6.
- - do not try using the cheaper foam stuff, it will melt where it passes near the exhaust manifold. BTDT.
(10) hose clamps for 5/8" I.D. hose
[EDIT]Hose clamps need to be the wide-strap, sturdy kind. I used a couple narrow-band ones and they couldn't be cranked tight enough to do the job. OEM spring type clamps are OK too, and you'll never wonder if they are tightened properly.[/EDIT]
(2) hose clamps for 1" I.D. hose
More clamps if you're replacing any of the existing ones.
(2) 45º copper elbows for 1/2" pipe. These will be inserted into the 5/8" hose.
(1 or 2) copper caps for 1/2" pipe. One will be inserted into heater unit's supply 5/8" hose after drilling a 3/16" hole in the cap. For flow restriction. Extra cap in case you want to redo it with a smaller or larger drilled hole.

Optional but recommended:
(1) replacement o-ring seal for the distributor shaft. Not a requirement but if you replace it now, it won't leak for a long time. I got mine from Honda, all other parts stores had a hard time figuring out what size ring I needed.

New heater hose (head to heater control valve) and lower radiator hose. My heater hose was kinda brittle when I cut into it, I should have replaced it with new. Lower rad hose is likely well aged because it's not so easy to get to. I did replace mine.

Other:
Gallon of antifreeze - I'm partial to the premixed type.
Jack, jack stands, misc tools.