Assembling the Heater Output Hose
The output hose exits the canister straight upwards and connects to the car's heater hose, at a tee to be inserted just below the distributor.
Pic of oem hose, with distributor removed for working access:
Pic of tee installed, with distributor removed for working access. Copper elbow not yet installed:
Notes on distributor removal:
Undo two electrical connectors at rear of distributor. Pull out on the metal spring clips to release them, squeeze down on plastic tabs to release them.
Remove three small screws holding distributor cap on the distributor. Remove dizzy cap with ignition wires still attached and set aside out of your way. You'll likely need to remove one wire to get the cap out of there.
Note the position of the rotor. After you remove distributor the rotor can move freely; you want to keep it in the same orientation when you reinstall. You almost can't reinstall it wrong - but you CAN force it into place with the rotor 180 degrees out of position. BTDT, not a good thing.
Mark the position on the distributor mount ear where it meets the engine. That will save you time getting the ignition timing set after you reinstall it.
Remove the three bolts (12 mm. hex??) that hold the dizzy to the engine. Don't drop them (duh).
Now you can pull the distributor away from the engine. There's a rubber o-ring seal where the dizzy shaft enters the engine. This is a good time to replace the seal; you've already done all the work to get access to it. The o ring just slips onto the shaft. Lube it up with some engine oil.
Hose Routing:
The oem heater hose carries hot coolant to the heater via the heater control valve, which you can see at the end of the hose before it goes through the firewall.
The output hose gets two 45º copper elbow fittings installed.
One of these elbows is shown in the drawing in post #1. The other goes at the start of the hose where it exits the heater canister. See pic below. Set that elbow so the hose is aimed towards its destination below the distributor.
Using the elbows enables a controlled path for your hose with a nice steady rise. You need that so the heated coolant will rise through the hose and enter the head. This creates a suction at the heater's feeder hose, which ultimately sucks coolant from the head towards the heater. The system will heat up without the elbows but it will heat more efficiently with a good clean rise all the way to the distributor area.
Output hose at canister. Shows copper elbow and foam hose. This foam hose melted and was replaced with the rubber Armaflex hose later, about $6 per six foot piece at Home Depot.
