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Originally Posted by justme1969
Well Im still working on that issueI think I would like to kill the injectors across the rail.
I also want a start button. The reason is to install a remote start or shut off is no less important.
My car is a front wheel drive with a clutched 5 speed.
The 3 things I see coming is; #1 excess wear on clutch from jump starting on the roll.
#2 excess wear on motor mounts being front drive.
#3 excess wear on key and ignition switch.
So im still in work on this having a bit of trouble finding a harness diagram that shows what and where. Start is really simple catch it pre neutral safety switch.
I may just catch shut down injectors in bottom side of fuse box but prefer to find a print and get it it harness instead.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by justme1969
Im getting closer bought 2 momentary switches today. Need to have them in soon with headlamps cutting off and on every time I shut down and engine rocking in its cradle every time I rollstart I have visions of a traffic violation or vehicle breakage in the future.
So for those who dont agree I really dont expect your admission when changing your clutch or replacing them motor mounts. Just remember Ive told ya so.
No offense but the mechanics always rite!
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I can see your points, but I have found if I double clutch the bump start, it can be
SOOO smooth if I do it right.
For those that want to know what I'm talking about when I say "double clutch", here is a VERY good, short video:
I skip the middle "revving" part because the car starts on the first release of the clutch pedal. Also the steps are slightly different, as you would start in N.
Clutch in,
shift to gear used to start car,
release clutch,
reapply clutch quickly,
shift into driving gear if different then gear used to start vehicle,
release clutch.
Double clutching is also unnecessary in most instances.
I was going to add a few notes on what I've found on timing the second clutch part, but I had better make a few more observations before commenting further.
