Kill Switch (EOC): Where did you install your activator? And what did you use?

[D.O.G.]

Here are some bad photos ... still, better than no photos.

I've wrapped a velcro cable tie around the shifter knob, with the tail running through a piece of heat shrink tubing to hold the switch. It rotated a bit on the knob at first, but hasn't moved since it was pulled tighter.
I used a second cable tie to hold the top of the shifter boot in place, where the cable pushes past.

The indicator light (below the vacuum gauge) reminds me when the injectors are off, so I can use engine braking down steep hills.

[myrefugeisintheLord]

Now it's my turn! WeatherSpotter walked me through the final parts of the install last night.





The electrical tape works surprisingly well!
So the switch I used, I got from MCM Electrical. It's a SPST N/O Momentary Switch - 125V - 3A ($1.05).

And here's the link to my "How To".
Fuel Injector Kill Switch: 1990 Honda CRX HF (How To W/ Pics)
Figured I should put it there with another CRX thread that's similar.

[justme1969]

Well Im still working on that issueI think I would like to kill the injectors across the rail.
I also want a start button. The reason is to install a remote start or shut off is no less important.
My car is a front wheel drive with a clutched 5 speed.
The 3 things I see coming is; #1 excess wear on clutch from jump starting on the roll.
#2 excess wear on motor mounts being front drive.
#3 excess wear on key and ignition switch.
So im still in work on this having a bit of trouble finding a harness diagram that shows what and where. Start is really simple catch it pre neutral safety switch.
I may just catch shut down injectors in bottom side of fuse box but prefer to find a print and get it it harness instead.

[HilseeJ]

Red Button SPST Pushbutton Switch : Pushbutton Switches | RadioShack.com

I'm not sure if that's the exact swtich, but that's exactly what it looked like. The car it was in got totaled. Check the tutorials to make sure it's the right amperage.

I put it in a blank button space next to the headlight button I think. I just drilled a hole that was as snug as possible for the button. Worked great. Or maybe I put it next to the hazard button...

P. S. The two poles on the other side were pretty close together so I had to solder the wires to each pole and the wrap it in electrical tape.

[PaleMelanesian]

Originally Posted by justme1969

Well Im still working on that issueI think I would like to kill the injectors across the rail.
I also want a start button. The reason is to install a remote start or shut off is no less important.
My car is a front wheel drive with a clutched 5 speed.
The 3 things I see coming is; #1 excess wear on clutch from jump starting on the roll.
#2 excess wear on motor mounts being front drive.
#3 excess wear on key and ignition switch.
So im still in work on this having a bit of trouble finding a harness diagram that shows what and where. Start is really simple catch it pre neutral safety switch.
I may just catch shut down injectors in bottom side of fuse box but prefer to find a print and get it it harness instead.

I can answer some of your concerns.
1. I have done EXTENSIVE bump-starting for years in my Civic. The clutch is still fine at 199,000 miles.
2. I haven't noticed any problem with the motor mounts.
3. My ignition switch was fine, but I did wear one key fairly heavily. It was getting notchy in the switch so I swapped it out for the spare - problem solved.

[justme1969]

Im getting closer bought 2 momentary switches today. Need to have them in soon with headlamps cutting off and on every time I shut down and engine rocking in its cradle every time I rollstart I have visions of a traffic violation or vehicle breakage in the future.
So for those who dont agree I really dont expect your admission when changing your clutch or replacing them motor mounts. Just remember Ive told ya so.
No offense but the mechanics always rite!

[HilseeJ]

I just got info on how to build a kill-switch. I will do it in my 2007 Honda Fit and post ALL of the details, along with an idiot-proof write up.

[myrefugeisintheLord]

Originally Posted by justme1969

Well Im still working on that issueI think I would like to kill the injectors across the rail.
I also want a start button. The reason is to install a remote start or shut off is no less important.
My car is a front wheel drive with a clutched 5 speed.
The 3 things I see coming is; #1 excess wear on clutch from jump starting on the roll.
#2 excess wear on motor mounts being front drive.
#3 excess wear on key and ignition switch.
So im still in work on this having a bit of trouble finding a harness diagram that shows what and where. Start is really simple catch it pre neutral safety switch.
I may just catch shut down injectors in bottom side of fuse box but prefer to find a print and get it it harness instead.

Originally Posted by justme1969

Im getting closer bought 2 momentary switches today. Need to have them in soon with headlamps cutting off and on every time I shut down and engine rocking in its cradle every time I rollstart I have visions of a traffic violation or vehicle breakage in the future.
So for those who dont agree I really dont expect your admission when changing your clutch or replacing them motor mounts. Just remember Ive told ya so.
No offense but the mechanics always rite!

I can see your points, but I have found if I double clutch the bump start, it can be SOOO smooth if I do it right.

For those that want to know what I'm talking about when I say "double clutch", here is a VERY good, short video:

How to Double Clutch

I skip the middle "revving" part because the car starts on the first release of the clutch pedal. Also the steps are slightly different, as you would start in N.

Clutch in,
shift to gear used to start car,
release clutch,
reapply clutch quickly,
shift into driving gear if different then gear used to start vehicle,
release clutch.

Double clutching is also unnecessary in most instances.

I was going to add a few notes on what I've found on timing the second clutch part, but I had better make a few more observations before commenting further.

[Xist]

Originally Posted by Xist

What is the difference between using a kill switch and a functioning DFCO? Since mine does not work, I have wanted a kill switch for the big hills between here and my parents' house, but if I cannot do that either, I just dislike having an automatic that much more!

Since you need to restart your engine, wouldn't your spark plugs stop firing, and since cars are designed to DFCO, would they continue to ignite, whether or not there is fuel?

[JRMichler]

I minimize restart loads by bump starting in 5th down to about 20 MPH, in 3rd down to about 10 MPH. I occasionally bump start in 2nd at slightly under 10 MPH, and never ever bump start in first gear. If I'm down to about 5 MPH, I normally key start.

And, yes, I always use the clutch twice on my bump starts. Bump just enough to turn the engine over, clutch in to let RPM's build, release clutch and go. Non eco-driving passengers generally don't even notice when I do it.