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Originally Posted by sallen
Sorry for getting on this thread a little late - I have one of these cars and can tell you the following:
Ultimate ecomod for the car > buy TDI engine, fit TDI engine, enjoy OBDII diagnostics and tunability and instant 10-15% mpg increase.
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Alas, I got the car for peanuts, and dont need another "project"= it offers 10-12mpg more than the "petrol equivalent" on my 328i, so already I've seen a benefit to having it. Plus, the lump is strong and runs well!
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Ultimate ecomod for the car with the AAZ engine would be a 5th gear swap (google is your friend, you have an "020" gearbox) as those Golfs seem to be fitted with "petrol car / town driving" gearboxes. My AAZ screams its head off at 70mph, it's just not geared for motorways compared to TDI engined cars.
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is this a fairly simple swap? Take its just swapping out 5th for a longer ratio?
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This brings me to what I've done over the past few years, most of these mods were (a) rubbish and (b) poorly built by me, and fell off...
(1) Undertray - 4% improvement, don't copy my build tho, that plastic sheeting stuff takes up water by capillary action and sags / gets heavy.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...1-a-12816.html
(2) LRR tyres - tiny mpg difference and lots (LOOOOTS) more road noise + huge loss of grip... FA grip in fact, even when compared to the "ditchfinder" el-cheapo tyres I took off.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ars-14023.html
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...res-14134.html
(3) Grill block and tyre spats - zero difference and the spats got destroyed by the tyre and high kurbs. Don't worry about running hot, these cars have HUUUUGE radiators and the AAZ engine produces very little heat.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...olf-10970.html
(4) Misc other aero stuff - sweet FA of a difference
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...rbo-12757.html
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...uild-9391.html
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...1-a-12763.html
(5) Biodiesel is safe, I've done thousands of miles on it - those Bosch pumps would push out gravel if you could feed it to them. LOWERED my MPG though (lower calorific content) but it's cheaper to buy so the per-mile cost of bio is +1p (11p per mile dino, 12p per mile bio)
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ing-10810.html
(6) EGR delete made FA difference to power or economy, maybe I have a cleaner intake manifold now though???
My final observation is if you want your AAZ to continue working, google "crank pulley wobble". There are two preventative fixes that you can do next time you have the engine out.
Oh, and final, final observation... If you are thinking of lowering it for FE / aesthetics check you don't have the rear brake bias valve that works by rear axle position (more rear brakes with a loaded-up car turn!!!
I don't mean for the above comments to paint a negative picture, the 'old tractor has been very reliable for me. It's just not a very efficient package - Big CC low power engine in a bad-handling, heavy hatchback.
I'm also happy for feedback on unsuccessful mods if I've been an idiot somewhere!!
Steve
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Thanks for the advice and experience- very useful, giving me plenty to consider!
cheers!