Quote:
Originally Posted by echo-francis
I use the diodes every time I drive but I switch them when my engine is at about 85C (if that happen  ) initially i was using 5 diodes but when my engine is cold my ewp system make it turn on only 6v and 5 diodes lower the voltage from 6v to 3.5v-2.5v and it was to low for the pump. by just removing 1 diodes the voltage was lowered to 3.2v-4v and i think thats the minimun to make it turn |
So you have it as a driver operated switch? Have you considered making it automatic based on various factors (specifically coolant temp, RPMs, etc.)?
What goes in the spot where the thermostat was, the coolant sensor, or does the radiator hose connect to the engine block directly? With no thermostat, how does the EMS know what the temp of the coolant is and how does it not throw a code/CEL?
At 85C, when you turn the pump on, what does the temp go down to (roughly)? Shouldn't the temp be right at 85C?
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn