Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnNBurn
Actually, I overlooked something. Battery management systems and chargers. If I'm going with Lifepo4 batteries, do they have integrated BMS or is there an external one you'd recommend?
I was looking at the Winston batteries ( Electric Motorsport EV Parts) 3.2v 90 Ah.
I actually had another question regarding the amp hour. Do you guys think the 90 Ah is worth the extra money over the 60 Ah? Do you know the math on figuring out how to estimate total range with the extra 30 Ah?
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Winston are some of the best for hobbiest use given their nice cost/ahr.
But...
It really depends on your needs and the platform you are building off of.
If you are talking low voltage AKA 36v-48v, 90ahr would be great for a decent range but if your talking higher voltage I don't think it would fit in quite as nicely. Unless you have a heavier platform to start with.
Something else to note, (although more expensive per WTHR) is that for motorcycles BB30's and NiMH Hybrid battery packs can be used instead. These can be had for a couple hundred per complete pack (if you look/wait) but weigh more, are high voltage but also can last longer and can be easier to charge.
Many will lambast me for said statement above but I think it really depends. If you can locate a cheap Ford escape hybrid pack locally it makes a great starter pack, can be paralleled if you use motor run diodes and separate chargers and can last longer than lithium in more extreme use and during more extreme weather (aka it handles cold well).
The only real reason to consider the NIMH however is to avoid a complex BMS and reduce the likelyhood of pack death. If you are anal you can probably get away with lifepo4 with no BMS but if you are not and tend to not pay attention NiMH can be more forgiving (usually).
I am still on junkyard lead for the moment and likely for a good time in the future but this was due to some negative lithium experiences so my thoughts may be jaded but care should be taken when you take the lithium plunge.
Also my previous statement about larger than needed cables was that I prefer to use them (you can run an 0/3 with half the conductor coroded away and still not zorch)
but that in your case you might get away with even lighter wire than the calculator mentions depending on how long and how far we are talking and what your actual cruising amps really are.
I would hope a motorcycle would be quite low.
Good Luck
Ryan