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BamZipPow · 12-14-2013, 02:43 AM

Pulled the cross beams off and painted them. Cut 2" off the front cross beam to allow fer the vertical 2x4 beams that will be bolted in place. I will probably tie them together across the bottom and extend the diffuser across it. The vertical beams will match the height of the aero cap top support rail and the bottom of the rear bumper...about 28.5".

The front brackets are now bolted through the trailer frame so they won't be going anywhere soon.

The extended sides will have a top and bottom. I've moved the wiring to the outside of the tub since there were too many issues with the wiring gitting damaged with luggage and cargo. The extended sides will keep the wiring discrete. I might even build up a fairing fer the single wheel using some pipe that will pivot at the front and slide open at the back to allow the wheel to pivot.

I'm considering building up the top of the extended sides and the tub lid with some Foamular and expanding foam covered with Tyvek as a skin. I'll have to see if I'll have enough time fer this one, too.

The side gap covers will be clear and will have 2 pivot points. I decided to move away from the original 1"x6" wood plank across the rear bumper setup and go with a simple metal strap setup. The bottom pivot point will be a bolt bolted through a metal strap which is clipped into place under the plastic bumper cover and secured from moving with another strap bolted to the bottom of the bumper. The top pivot point will be a mending plate screwed in place and a clevis pin passing through that and a support plate on the gap cover. This will allow me to easily remove the covers.

The top cover will be clear and be shaped to the rear of the aero cap. Metal straps will reinforce the shape front and rear. Metal plates will have to be secured to the top of the tub lid to keep the cover from wearing into the lid. The cover will be attached to the main rails of the aero cap hatch with the same securing pins to keep the hatch locked in place. I will have to test to see if the air flow will allow the cover to stay in place or not.

All the covers will be stored in the trailer when not in use. I finally had a key made fer the locking handle so I can lock it now.

I will update the dimensions of the trailer once I git it built up.

12-14-2013, 02:43 AM	#76 (permalink)
BamZipPow T-100 Road Warrior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The Woodlands, TX Posts: 1,921 BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5 Last 3: 24 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2011) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5 Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5 Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5 Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 90 day: 20.78 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 90 day: 20.19 mpg (US) BZP T-100 (2019) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 BZP T-100 (2020) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5 2012 Scion iQ - '12 Scion iQ Base Thanks: 3,502 Thanked 1,395 Times in 968 Posts	Pulled the cross beams off and painted them. Cut 2" off the front cross beam to allow fer the vertical 2x4 beams that will be bolted in place. I will probably tie them together across the bottom and extend the diffuser across it. The vertical beams will match the height of the aero cap top support rail and the bottom of the rear bumper...about 28.5". The front brackets are now bolted through the trailer frame so they won't be going anywhere soon. The extended sides will have a top and bottom. I've moved the wiring to the outside of the tub since there were too many issues with the wiring gitting damaged with luggage and cargo. The extended sides will keep the wiring discrete. I might even build up a fairing fer the single wheel using some pipe that will pivot at the front and slide open at the back to allow the wheel to pivot. I'm considering building up the top of the extended sides and the tub lid with some Foamular and expanding foam covered with Tyvek as a skin. I'll have to see if I'll have enough time fer this one, too. The side gap covers will be clear and will have 2 pivot points. I decided to move away from the original 1"x6" wood plank across the rear bumper setup and go with a simple metal strap setup. The bottom pivot point will be a bolt bolted through a metal strap which is clipped into place under the plastic bumper cover and secured from moving with another strap bolted to the bottom of the bumper. The top pivot point will be a mending plate screwed in place and a clevis pin passing through that and a support plate on the gap cover. This will allow me to easily remove the covers. The top cover will be clear and be shaped to the rear of the aero cap. Metal straps will reinforce the shape front and rear. Metal plates will have to be secured to the top of the tub lid to keep the cover from wearing into the lid. The cover will be attached to the main rails of the aero cap hatch with the same securing pins to keep the hatch locked in place. I will have to test to see if the air flow will allow the cover to stay in place or not. All the covers will be stored in the trailer when not in use. I finally had a key made fer the locking handle so I can lock it now. I will update the dimensions of the trailer once I git it built up. __________________ Dark Aero-The world's first aerodynamic single wheel boat tail! Last edited by BamZipPow; 12-14-2013 at 05:01 AM..