Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperMileQC
If you want to bump start after FAS you have to hold the switch so it stay in Phase-I, right? Then you release the switch when the engine starts I guess.
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backwards.
In Phase-I --- holding in FAS button.
You have zero fuel going to the ICE. That is how it stops the engine from running in the 1st place. As long as you hold FAS in Phase-I like that you can not have any combustion. You will not start the ICE. The most you will do is turn the ICE at some RPMs as an air pump, burning not gasoline.
To bump start.
You just need FAS to be off and the ICE to rotate fast enough 800+ RPMs. Similar to bump starting after a key off state. You do not want to be in any FAS if you want the ICE to start and burn gasoline.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperMileQC
I already have a dumb grid charger for the 144v battery but I don't charge in the winter. This is one of my favorite mod.
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I think the biggest benefit of a grid charger is as a method to extend the useful operating life of the 144V battery. That only takes one to do a full balancing grid charge like once every 6 to 8 months.
It can be used to save a bit of fuel ... but not much.
Absolute most about ~1/20 of a gallon per full grid charge ... More realistically Real Life an upper end max of only about ~1/50 of a gallon per Grid Charge. It is something, but it isn't much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperMileQC
On the DC-DC switch, what would I have to do to put off my DC-DC converter when I drive? Would it even be possible? If not, I'll probably stop thinking about this modification.
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Off the top of my head.
#A> Disconnect the DC-DC from the 144V IMA battery.
It has it's own power line. That wire can be unplugged, cut, or a big enough switch of relay.
#B> Disconnect the DC-DC from the 12V battery.
It has it's own power line feeding up from the rear of the car. You could, unplug it, cut it, switch or relay it.
#C> Mimic the 'turn off' control signal sent to it, and send a copy of it yourself.
#D> Fake the DC-DC's internal temperature sensor.
If it thinks it is too hot, it will turn off.
#E> Remove the Dc-DC converter from the car.
etc ... etc ... I'm sure there are many others.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperMileQC
I already did some modifications to reduce my electricity consumption like EPS disable, LED position lights, tail lights, map lights and immatriculation light. I also disabled the DRLs. I will soon replace all my cluster lights with LED. I try to turn off the radio some times... 
Also when you do P&EOC your electricity consumption is reduced because more than 50% of the time your engine is off. |
Nice Conservation efforts / mods.
Those will help.
But just be careful.
If you do proceed.
At the very least, I would recommend putting in a 12V meter so you can see how far you are pulling it down. Also , upgrade the 12V to a larger capacity than OEM battery.
If you want to be precise you can put a camp on amp meter on the 12V while driving and such ... log your usage rate ... that will also help you to get a better idea of how long a given usable capacity in the 12V battery will get you.