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Old 02-28-2014, 02:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
oil pan 4
EV convert
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
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Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
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Best communtator/slip rings "crayon" and break in

I have a modle 030477 ($900 generator currenty on the shelf at lowes) 7000w troybilt generator I bought last night for $100, of course it didnt work, fired it up, read 7v line to line, thats a good sign, means the stator coils are intact, but do not have excitation, then tested the brushes for continuity, read ol, pulled the brush set and found that burned up one of its slip ring brushes. (I worked on 3 phase air craft alternators for 11 years so this is preschool level to me).
And instead of doing what most normal people would do (just install a new brush set) I want to do it right and condition the new brushes and recondition the slip rings with out removing the arm.
We never used a commutator crayon at work, tech data just called for new brushes be slapped on, crank it up, do a load test and thats it. I guess that makes you wear out the armature that much sooner and have to buy a new alternator assembly ($$$$$$).

What's a good slip ring crayon to use?

I read an old post on reconditioning fork lift motors that featured one kind of communtator/slip rings crayon that all the EV guys seemed to like, but I cant find it.

Whats the recommended break in time and speed?

Its a 2 pole 3600rpm genset and I can unhook the governor and run it at what ever speed I want.

When I buy a new tool with a commutator I just hook it up to the varrac and give it 30 to 50 volts while I go take a short break. Cant really do that on a generator.

1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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