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Old 02-28-2014, 01:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Best communtator/slip rings "crayon" and break in

I have a modle 030477 ($900 generator currenty on the shelf at lowes) 7000w troybilt generator I bought last night for $100, of course it didnt work, fired it up, read 7v line to line, thats a good sign, means the stator coils are intact, but do not have excitation, then tested the brushes for continuity, read ol, pulled the brush set and found that burned up one of its slip ring brushes. (I worked on 3 phase air craft alternators for 11 years so this is preschool level to me).
And instead of doing what most normal people would do (just install a new brush set) I want to do it right and condition the new brushes and recondition the slip rings with out removing the arm.
We never used a commutator crayon at work, tech data just called for new brushes be slapped on, crank it up, do a load test and thats it. I guess that makes you wear out the armature that much sooner and have to buy a new alternator assembly ($$$$$$).

What's a good slip ring crayon to use?

I read an old post on reconditioning fork lift motors that featured one kind of communtator/slip rings crayon that all the EV guys seemed to like, but I cant find it.

Whats the recommended break in time and speed?

Its a 2 pole 3600rpm genset and I can unhook the governor and run it at what ever speed I want.

When I buy a new tool with a commutator I just hook it up to the varrac and give it 30 to 50 volts while I go take a short break. Cant really do that on a generator.

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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
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Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
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The oil pan 4 electric vehicle tow and charge service gets one step closer to reality.
With the brushes replaced and slip rings shined up its ready to go it puts out 240v at 60hz.
Ok so I am not really building a tow and charge trailer, but the trailer I am buildingis 18 feet long, over 8 feet wide, legally hold 5000lb and I can put what ever I want on it, generator, electric vehicle, or welding machines and 20 foot lengths of steel, torch cart.
The generator is going to be a remote power source for air compressor, plasma cutter, and varrious welding machines, or EV if needed.
When I am done with it the generator will have NEMA receptacles L14-30, L14-20, 10-50, 5-20 and possibly an L5-30. (The 10-50 is a 50 amp receptacle on a 30 amp breaker)
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.

Last edited by oil pan 4; 03-11-2014 at 12:02 PM..
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What did you do?

You were looking for a way to recondition/lube the parts before putting in new brushes.

Did you find something suitable?
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Old 03-14-2014, 04:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
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Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
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I used an erasable pen eraser at first just to do the initial install to get the junk off the slip rings and brushes in and no load tested to make sure there were no other surprises then found a commutator stick on ebay which has a consistency some where between that of soap stone and lime stone, with a bit of chalkyness to it. I thought a "commutator stick" would be softer. I could sharpen a knife on it.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
EV convert
 
oil pan 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 9,615

Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
SUV
90 day: 141.63 mpg (US)
Thanks: 228
Thanked 3,138 Times in 2,457 Posts
I have also found that some people use #320 grit or finer sand paper on slip rings.
Apparently that's what the guys who repair really old arc welding machines use on a welding machines commutators and/or slip rings.

__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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