Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb
Is that all the same piece of vacuum hose or are you redoing your plumbing under the hood? 
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I'll eventually get it cut to length. For now I'm going to need every inch if I keep crimping the hose installing the gauge!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlb
that is a sharp looking mounting job. very nice.
what is your vacuum at idle after fixing the kink in the vac line? on an engine in good condition, it should be 18-21".
here's a great reference on how to use a vacuum gauge to diagnose a variety of engine issues. scroll down to the bottom for a great little graphic.
How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge
by t-ing into the vac line for the brake booster, do you find applying the brakes has much effect on the readings? for future reference, you can splice into any vac hose coming off the intake plenum but i prefer not to use the hoses associated with the brake booster, fuel return diaphragm, or PCV systems. that leaves hoses going to stuff like sensors, EGR, etc. alternatively and ideally, some engines have unused ports on the intake plenum or manifold that are capped at the factory. pull the plastic or rubber cap off and attach the hose to that port.
i've been driving with a vac gauge for a few months now and have managed to increase my mileage by an average of 10% so i'm a big believer in them. |
I'm located in Denver, so 16 in. hg. is pretty good negative pressure. Although the car is in great condition for it age, the suspension and brakes need work. I've pressed all new bushings into every suspension component* and I'm going to convert to rear disc at the same time. I will then do new rotors and pads, springs and struts all the way around.
So to answer your question, no, I haven't felt a difference with braking, but my brakes are VERY well worn. I just took her around the block and maybe up to 30 mph.
Without a vacuum leak within the booster line or my tap I don't understand why anything would change anyway. I'll monitor it though.
*I've sourced front lower control arms from a GS-R, rear lower control arms from a LS, front anti-sway bar from the LS and rear anti-sway from a Type-R , and Del Sol Si rear trailing arms for the rear disc conversion. New upper front control arms, rotors and pads. Koni STR.T struts with H&R springs. This is my plan for the suspension rebuild/conversion. Hopefully I find the time to start the project, I have all the parts.
ZO.