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Old 07-13-2014, 10:03 AM   #155 (permalink)
hackish
Calibration Engineer
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 86

Subie - '00 Subaru Impreza STi JDM
90 day: 22.49 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovr41991 View Post
With the tuned ECU I now use tunerview 2 and an MPGuino. That combo seems to be ideal for monitoring. With running lean all the time, I constantly monitor water temp as it creates a lot of heat. I was running near 200 degrees a lot, so I moved my grill block air intake to the side of the radiator and now temps stay around 190-194.
Running LOP creates less heat, not more. In traffic and from 10+ years of working on and tuning hondas I'd say 190 is usually the most you should see. The AT cars run a little hotter but very few people want their slushboxes tuned.

You could check on the water pump but generally they either work or leak. Most often I have seen plugged rads. Just a replacement stocker could be a good choice. If you check the AT ones are usually dual core not single but even the single core honda rad is sufficient to cool most 300hp turbo engines so it should have no problems with yours. The black plastic beside the rad is also important so make sure it's in there.

Which tuned ECU are you using? One of the marvels of the VX was it's EGR but I never had the time to finish building a def to edit a P07. If you're using tunerview I assume the ecu was tuned with neptune?

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovr41991 View Post
A kill switch is probably the best mod you can do. Start using it when you are coasting off an exit ramp. It is shocking how much gas that saves. I used to use DFCO, but the kill switch allows for a longer coast and is less wear and tear on the drivetrain.
The purpose of DFCO was to save fuel and help slow the car. I agree that engine off out of gear makes better use of your kinetic energy but it puts a lot more wear on your drivetrain.

Before I got out of the mechanical business there were a few guys with the cutoff switches in town and continually bump starting their hondas kept breaking the springs in their clutches (more technically the pressure plate spring tabs). Also, popping it in and out of gear at speed killed the syncros.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovr41991 View Post
I really don't have any newer pictures, but there should be plenty of older ones in this thread. I probably should take some new pictures of it. I got my hands on some brand new OEM Honda headlights and they look amazing. No more headlight polishing for me!

I have been really busy at work and doing house projects. Big plans to do a belly pan and kamback, but need to find time to do it.
Another power saver you might try is adding HIDs. They are cheap now but it's difficult to get a good quality set. The digital ballasts usually pull about 35-40w whereas the normal bulbs pull about 110w.

One last point about killing the engine when you're rolling, it's a good idea to install an EGT probe in your cat. If you drop below 600 degrees then restart the engine otherwise you'll be a pulse and pollute driver. I did some tester to figure out how badly pulse and glide polluted but unfortunately it would always peg my 5 gas analyzer as soon as the cat dropped below operating temp. Saving fuel is one thing but at the expense of polluting more than 10 cars is another.

This is not as bad on newer cars as they monitor cat temp as you drive and on a restart it goes into relight mode and dumps a ton of extra fuel and pulls timing to light the cat again.

-Michael
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