Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic
To know you have the system bled properly.
Engine cold.
Fill the radiator to the top and the recovery bottle to the middle between the hot and cold marks.
Run the engine until it gets hot, then bleed with the cap on and tight.
Repeat this process until you get no more air out of the bleeder.
The level in the recovery bottle will go up as the engine gets hot, but what is most important is the level in the recovery bottle should GO DOWN as the engine cools. When there is an air pocket in the system the coolant level in the bottle will not go down as the engine cools, because the air pocket is preventing the cooling system from pulling coolant from the bottle as the coolant cools off and the coolant contracts.
If there is any doubt, bleed again, as I said earlier, until you get no more air.
Then, if you still experience overheating, the radiator is your problem. To confirm this, you will have little difference in top and bottom hose temperatures, which means the radiator can not remove enough heat from the coolant to keep the car cool.
When the system is working properly, with normal capacity in the radiator, it should stay in the normal operating range even in ambient temperatures 20 degrees higher that you have locally. The additional capacity is designed in the system and you don't read about manufacturers denying warranty claims in Phoenix Arizona or telling buyers they can expect their engines to melt.
regards
mech
regards
mech
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Wait, do I heat up the engine with the radiator cap off, then put it on and bleed the system?
Also, once again, thank you for your help. If you wanna call me and explain this to me instead of trying to type it lemme know haha.