Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Off-Topic Tech
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-11-2014, 12:11 AM   #21 (permalink)
Furry Furfag
 
Baltothewolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084

Winsight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Miaderp - '95 Mazda Miata
90 day: 28.53 mpg (US)
Thanks: 67
Thanked 405 Times in 310 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
Don't confuse a proper bleeding procedure with a bad radiator diagnosis. They are not related. You can put a brand new radiator in the car and not bleed it properly and it will still overheat.

Keep opening the bleeder until you get nothing but liquid coolant, That COULD fix the problem. The dealership replaced the water pump bypass hose on my Riviera. It was running hot until I took it back and they bled it until it had no air pocket and it ran cool.

regards
mech
I just took the car out for a spin after I burped the system, and it stayed 203F the entire time with the occasional bump to 204.8, but never stayed there for more then a second, when previously, it stuck there for a while. I took it up the steepest hill around here, which is pretty steep.

The first night I got the insight, I took it up the same hill and it stayed at 206.6 the entire time. This run, stayed dead at 203, and with that being said, it was hotter tonight then the night I tested it.

Tomorrow when I go to my friends house we will see how it does. It's supposed to be hotter tomorrow then today.


Last edited by Baltothewolf; 09-11-2014 at 12:16 AM..
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 09-11-2014, 12:22 AM   #22 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MI
Posts: 54

grey panther - '02 Mercury Grand Marquis
Team Panther
90 day: 27.15 mpg (US)
Thanks: 9
Thanked 18 Times in 12 Posts
Check the coolant reservoir cap. The system is pressurized and a bad cap can cause the symptoms you are seeing. Not likely, but one more thing to check. I had a problem with a car I couldn't get to cool after a minor front end collision. Burped the hell out of it, new thermostat, cleaned it. finally replaced the radiator and it worked great. 150k miles on it and I think the "bump" dislodged some crud or damaged it internally.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2014, 12:26 AM   #23 (permalink)
Furry Furfag
 
Baltothewolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084

Winsight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Miaderp - '95 Mazda Miata
90 day: 28.53 mpg (US)
Thanks: 67
Thanked 405 Times in 310 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tyronasauras View Post
Check the coolant reservoir cap. The system is pressurized and a bad cap can cause the symptoms you are seeing. Not likely, but one more thing to check. I had a problem with a car I couldn't get to cool after a minor front end collision. Burped the hell out of it, new thermostat, cleaned it. finally replaced the radiator and it worked great. 150k miles on it and I think the "bump" dislodged some crud or damaged it internally.
I should do this when it's fully cool right? So I don't suck any air into the system?
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2014, 12:33 AM   #24 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,521

Volt, gas only - '12 Chevrolet Volt Premium
90 day: 38.02 mpg (US)

Volt, electric only - '12 Chevrolet Volt Premium
90 day: 132.26 mpg (US)

Yukon Denali Hybrid - '12 GMC Yukon Denali Hybrid
90 day: 21.48 mpg (US)
Thanks: 164
Thanked 333 Times in 232 Posts
Is 206 over heating? I dont know about my cts, but my old intrepid wouldn't even flip the fans on until 215 iirc.
__________________




  Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2014, 12:36 AM   #25 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MI
Posts: 54

grey panther - '02 Mercury Grand Marquis
Team Panther
90 day: 27.15 mpg (US)
Thanks: 9
Thanked 18 Times in 12 Posts
I don't think it will suck air, but you dont want to get BURNED. Wait until it is down to warm after maybe 15 min and slowly release. It should still be able to hear the pressure release.
Maybe someone with more experience than I can comment
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2014, 12:53 AM   #26 (permalink)
Liberty Lover
 
j12piprius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: central california
Posts: 587

pris prius - '12 Toyota plug in prius
90 day: 71.09 mpg (US)
Thanks: 417
Thanked 83 Times in 60 Posts
I think OEM for the 00 insight is 172 to 192, about the same as the civic, so I think 206 is too hot for just starting to drive. What temp does the fan come on? It comes on at 206 on the civic.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2014, 12:56 AM   #27 (permalink)
Furry Furfag
 
Baltothewolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084

Winsight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Miaderp - '95 Mazda Miata
90 day: 28.53 mpg (US)
Thanks: 67
Thanked 405 Times in 310 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
I think OEM for the 00 insight is 172 to 192, about the same as the civic, so I think 206 is too hot for just starting to drive. What temp does the fan come on? It comes on at 206 on the civic.
207 the fan comes on from what I was told. And 203 is about cruising speed for my insight. My civic cruised around 206 and got as hot at 212 on my climb to my job and the ride home.

Also, you guys have to remember the ambient temp out here is 99-104.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2014, 08:29 AM   #28 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,927
Thanks: 877
Thanked 2,018 Times in 1,302 Posts
To know you have the system bled properly.
Engine cold.

Fill the radiator to the top and the recovery bottle to the middle between the hot and cold marks.

Run the engine until it gets hot, then bleed with the cap on and tight.

Repeat this process until you get no more air out of the bleeder.

The level in the recovery bottle will go up as the engine gets hot, but what is most important is the level in the recovery bottle should GO DOWN as the engine cools. When there is an air pocket in the system the coolant level in the bottle will not go down as the engine cools, because the air pocket is preventing the cooling system from pulling coolant from the bottle as the coolant cools off and the coolant contracts.

If there is any doubt, bleed again, as I said earlier, until you get no more air.

Then, if you still experience overheating, the radiator is your problem. To confirm this, you will have little difference in top and bottom hose temperatures, which means the radiator can not remove enough heat from the coolant to keep the car cool.

When the system is working properly, with normal capacity in the radiator, it should stay in the normal operating range even in ambient temperatures 20 degrees higher that you have locally. The additional capacity is designed in the system and you don't read about manufacturers denying warranty claims in Phoenix Arizona or telling buyers they can expect their engines to melt.

regards
mech

regards
mech
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to user removed For This Useful Post:
Baltothewolf (09-21-2014)
Old 09-11-2014, 08:32 AM   #29 (permalink)
Furry Furfag
 
Baltothewolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084

Winsight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Miaderp - '95 Mazda Miata
90 day: 28.53 mpg (US)
Thanks: 67
Thanked 405 Times in 310 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
To know you have the system bled properly.
Engine cold.

Fill the radiator to the top and the recovery bottle to the middle between the hot and cold marks.

Run the engine until it gets hot, then bleed with the cap on and tight.

Repeat this process until you get no more air out of the bleeder.

The level in the recovery bottle will go up as the engine gets hot, but what is most important is the level in the recovery bottle should GO DOWN as the engine cools. When there is an air pocket in the system the coolant level in the bottle will not go down as the engine cools, because the air pocket is preventing the cooling system from pulling coolant from the bottle as the coolant cools off and the coolant contracts.

If there is any doubt, bleed again, as I said earlier, until you get no more air.

Then, if you still experience overheating, the radiator is your problem. To confirm this, you will have little difference in top and bottom hose temperatures, which means the radiator can not remove enough heat from the coolant to keep the car cool.

When the system is working properly, with normal capacity in the radiator, it should stay in the normal operating range even in ambient temperatures 20 degrees higher that you have locally. The additional capacity is designed in the system and you don't read about manufacturers denying warranty claims in Phoenix Arizona or telling buyers they can expect their engines to melt.

regards
mech

regards
mech
Wait, do I heat up the engine with the radiator cap off, then put it on and bleed the system?

Also, once again, thank you for your help. If you wanna call me and explain this to me instead of trying to type it lemme know haha.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2014, 08:35 AM   #30 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,927
Thanks: 877
Thanked 2,018 Times in 1,302 Posts
Absolutely not. Cap must be on and tight before you start the engine. That pressurizes the system, as it warms up, to help the bleeding get the air pocket out. It will NOT work if you leave the cap off and as the coolant heats up it will overflow with the cap open.

regards
mech

  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to user removed For This Useful Post:
Baltothewolf (09-21-2014)
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com