Update 10/23/2014: MPGuino Final Install + Initial Impressions + Amber Dash (Cont.)
Hello all, here’s some updates! Install was completed on the MPGuino last weekend. It turned out to be a long weekend, and this project “fought back hard” (ever have one of those?), but we got it done. I won't go into complete details, but lets just say I made an SOS-call out to a fellow EcoModder, after the MPGuino display (once completely mounted and wired) displayed information upside down b/c yours truly mounted it that way. Yeah...
Here’s my son putting in some work, telling me where to find the VSS and Injector junctions within the harness at the ECU.
Here’s a cover that I made out of the vinyl from the back flap of a cheap Walmart binder. It covers up the LCD screen edges that were exposed behind the MPGuino panel opening. Cleans things up a bit, visually-speaking.
Here’s how I coated all of my bulbs to an amber color. This included the AutoMeter Vac gauge (left bulb in the picture; right bulb is a blue one for my F150 gauge), as well as all other dash bulbs, as I used the same translucent Tamiya-brand model paint to re-coat the amber bulbs I purchased from Autozone a couple of weeks back. They were always a pale orange hue, and getting worse daily. Since being re-coated with the Tamiya paint, they now REALLY pop; a nice red-orange hue. I like this paint a lot, as it coats on "thick", even when you do just one coat. I used several, of course, to ensure it lasts as long as possible under daily heat exposure. We’ll see how long it lasts. I just brush painted it on, and let it dry. In the model-kit world, this paint is used to paint tail lights.
I also continued dash work, and used the same translucent Tamiya paint previously mentioned to paint the LCD screen within the dash clock assembly. I simply opened up the clock by prying at the tabs with a small screw driver, painted the screen, let it dry, and re-installed. Voila! “JDM Amber Clock” on the cheap.
Honda-heads, is this amber the correct color, or should I add a layer of translucent red on top as well? It’s a bit more of a “medium orange” hue than I have seen from other DIY “JDM Amber” clocks on the net. Others I have seen appear to be more of a orange-red hue. Which color is more accurate to the original JDM piece?
While I was on the interior-restoration path, I decided to re-do the gauge cluster, as I wasn't happy with the paint I used on the first go around. The original red paint I used was a lacquer-based model paint. It was too dark (more of a wine red) and didn't match well with the red line color of the tachometer and other OEM-red elements on the gauge face. More importantly, the lacquer paint would get “sticky” in hot temps, and the needles were sticking to the posts they rest on when the car is off. I’d have to bang the top of the dash like an old television to get them to “un-stick”. No sir! That ghetto-ness had to go.
Also, the green paint I used did not adhere well to either the gauge face or the needle. It actually retracted, shriveled up, and fell off the fuel needle.
So, I went to Wal-Mart and got some Painters pens from their craft section. Man, I'm glad that I did! The colors are excellent. The red I chose is a closer match to OEM red-color found on the gauge faces, and the new neon-green color pops like crazy, and reminds me of the green hue used on the needles and face of the Spoon EK clusters. Pops very well, easy to see at dusk/dawn, and (IMHO) looks sick! Most importantly, proper adhesion is now made on the gauge/needles, and the nice satin-like finish looks both OEM and doesn't create any “sticky situations” on warmer days.
I also OCD-cleaned the interior. Things are starting to really come together inside the car now, I think. Pics below show my completed mirror set up also. I drilled in some set-screws to lock in the mirrors, as they like to fall due to the added weight of the large convex mirrors being taped to them. The small mirrors that come attached to the “Ultimate Blind Spot Mirror” units weren't large enough for my tastes/needs. Actually, the driver’s side worked well, but the passengers side wasn't large enough. I went ahead and “upgraded” both sides for visual-congruence.
And here’s the completed MPGuino button panel. Works great, and is easy to get to/manipulate. I used a red button on the far left, since it’s the one that toggle’s between the different screens on the dislply (Actually, it was initially more of an adaptive decision, as Radio Shack only had 2 black buttons,
).
And here’s the MPGuino in action!
While not the most inspirational stats being displayed in this picture, on the contrary, the device is helping me greatly. It’s a
whole new ball game for me now! I have a much more accurate monitor with which to make best decisions on engine rpm vs. gear selection. So many questions I had before are now being answered, and I’m learning more each day about what to do in different driving situations. The possibilities on the road are endless, due to traffic patterns/hills/etc… Now that I have this, I can’t possibly imagine trying to “extreme hypermile” without one. The MPGuino (or ScanGuage) tool is, simply put, a must for hypermiling. The vac gauge is very handy also, and the combo of the two is perfect. Please see my trip meter in the pic above. Iv'e never hit 300 miles before the needle got to the halfway mark before. My best so far (on 87 octane) is about 260 miles before the needle dropped below the halfway point. MPGuino is only giving me about 54 mpg so far for this current tank, but I have not fully calibrated it yet. I suspect (and hope) that number is going to be a bit higher when I refuel a few days from now. I’m hoping to hit close to 60 mpg on this current tank filled with 87 octane gas, with a goal of breaking 65 mpg using 100% E0 gas in the near future...before more intense aero mods are completed.
Given the wind resistance I'm currently fighting (especially in the morning commute), that’s a lofty goal, but I’ll let you guys know how it goes.
This weekend’s build time will focus on a custom safety sign for the rear hatch, and I may possibly dive into some lighter front-end aero work.
As always, thanks for
eco-tuning in!