Quote:
Originally Posted by Insight for life
BALTO: Your close! do you still want me to call you?
Here is what I did!
I wasn't able to find where they branch out to the 3 separate wires that go to the injectors. I basically just looked at the plugs on the injectors and found that each one had one wire (out of 2) that were the same on all 3 injectors. So I just went a safe distance back from the injectors (in case I goofed and needed to re-connect ) and cut all three of them.
You will now have 2 groups of 3 wires each; one group coming from the harness and the other continuing on to the injectors. Combine each group into one connection and connect them to the relay terminals use a normally closed relay. Take a jumper wire from the group coming from the harness ( the "hot" side) and run it to the relay's coil. Then run a wire from the other coil terminal inside to one side of a push-button(normally open) switch, then run a wire from a good solid ground to the other side of the switch.
Hook the bundle of wires from the harness (the hot side) to pin 30 and the bundle going to the injectors to pin 87A. Then run a jumper from pin 30 to pin 85. The switch that goes inside would hook to pin 86. The NAPA part # is MPE AR 204SB. Unfortunately, it looks like NAPA wants about $8 so you may want to look around for a cheaper equivalent. The pin #'s should be the same for any brand of relay. Pushing the switch button energizes the relay and opens the the circuit cutting the power to the injectors. So, for much less than $10 dollars, you'll have a decent FAS circuit that basically mimics the OEM auto-stop.
Here is a pic, Hopefully it helps and is correct.
|
Yes please do, I'm up right now awaiting your call.
Also, this confirms all my suspicions! My little brother and I went over a diagram of the fuel injection system and we both concluded that there was no way the BLK/YLW was sending signals as it's connected to a N/O relay that's activated when you turn the key on!