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Old 11-04-2014, 04:28 PM   #191 (permalink)
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GoPro?

Duct-tape your phone to your head? :P

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Old 11-04-2014, 05:34 PM   #192 (permalink)
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GoPro?

Duct-tape your phone to your head? :P

$25 dollar dash cam from Amazon?
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:04 PM   #193 (permalink)
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So, I just posted this over on IC, but I thought I might put it here. I THINK, I'm not 100% sure I'm waiting on confirmation, but according to what I have read, all 3 injectors eventually come together at a single power source. I'm not sure where, but here is my plan if it's true.

Tie all 3 together at the injectors, then wire nut them to another wire, going to my relay.

Take the hot side of the injectors power, and wire nut them to 2 additional wires, one going to the NC side of the relay, and the other to the magnetic coil thingy side, then run a wire into the cabin on the negative, so when I flip the switch, it activates the relay and cuts all the injectors at once.

Below is an attached diagram of what I'm talking about.

Also I would like to add, this would be a lot more effective in the long term then using coil kill method as the second you flip it NO fuel is being used. The coil kill method might work for some, but I don't fancy still dumping a little fuel into the cylinders, not for longevity issues, but IMO it's just a waste of gas, which could (probably not) add up in the long run.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:18 PM   #194 (permalink)
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BALTO: Your close! do you still want me to call you?
Here is what I did!
I wasn't able to find where they branch out to the 3 separate wires that go to the injectors. I basically just looked at the plugs on the injectors and found that each one had one wire (out of 2) that were the same on all 3 injectors. So I just went a safe distance back from the injectors (in case I goofed and needed to re-connect ) and cut all three of them.

You will now have 2 groups of 3 wires each; one group coming from the harness and the other continuing on to the injectors. Combine each group into one connection and connect them to the relay terminals use a normally closed relay. Take a jumper wire from the group coming from the harness ( the "hot" side) and run it to the relay's coil. Then run a wire from the other coil terminal inside to one side of a push-button(normally open) switch, then run a wire from a good solid ground to the other side of the switch.

Hook the bundle of wires from the harness (the hot side) to pin 30 and the bundle going to the injectors to pin 87A. Then run a jumper from pin 30 to pin 85. The switch that goes inside would hook to pin 86. The NAPA part # is MPE AR 204SB. Unfortunately, it looks like NAPA wants about $8 so you may want to look around for a cheaper equivalent. The pin #'s should be the same for any brand of relay. Pushing the switch button energizes the relay and opens the the circuit cutting the power to the injectors. So, for much less than $10 dollars, you'll have a decent FAS circuit that basically mimics the OEM auto-stop.

Here is a pic, Hopefully it helps and is correct.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:43 PM   #195 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insight for life View Post
BALTO: Your close! do you still want me to call you?
Here is what I did!
I wasn't able to find where they branch out to the 3 separate wires that go to the injectors. I basically just looked at the plugs on the injectors and found that each one had one wire (out of 2) that were the same on all 3 injectors. So I just went a safe distance back from the injectors (in case I goofed and needed to re-connect ) and cut all three of them.

You will now have 2 groups of 3 wires each; one group coming from the harness and the other continuing on to the injectors. Combine each group into one connection and connect them to the relay terminals use a normally closed relay. Take a jumper wire from the group coming from the harness ( the "hot" side) and run it to the relay's coil. Then run a wire from the other coil terminal inside to one side of a push-button(normally open) switch, then run a wire from a good solid ground to the other side of the switch.

Hook the bundle of wires from the harness (the hot side) to pin 30 and the bundle going to the injectors to pin 87A. Then run a jumper from pin 30 to pin 85. The switch that goes inside would hook to pin 86. The NAPA part # is MPE AR 204SB. Unfortunately, it looks like NAPA wants about $8 so you may want to look around for a cheaper equivalent. The pin #'s should be the same for any brand of relay. Pushing the switch button energizes the relay and opens the the circuit cutting the power to the injectors. So, for much less than $10 dollars, you'll have a decent FAS circuit that basically mimics the OEM auto-stop.

Here is a pic, Hopefully it helps and is correct.
Yes please do, I'm up right now awaiting your call.

Also, this confirms all my suspicions! My little brother and I went over a diagram of the fuel injection system and we both concluded that there was no way the BLK/YLW was sending signals as it's connected to a N/O relay that's activated when you turn the key on!
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Old 11-05-2014, 01:56 AM   #196 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf View Post
...wire nut... ...and wire nut them...
the primary reason I break my circuit at a fuse was not because it is easy, but because it does a better job of retaining the integrity of the cuircuit. Using solder and shrink tubing seems it would be well worth the effort in this situation
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:12 AM   #197 (permalink)
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routing for wires

Cowmeat, how did you run the wire to your switch?

There appears to be no way to run wires through my shifter.

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Originally Posted by cowmeat View Post
Metro, that's right where I installed my brake regen button, I love it on the shifter.
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Old 11-06-2014, 07:56 AM   #198 (permalink)
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Quote:
Cowmeat, how did you run the wire to your switch?

There appears to be no way to run wires through my shifter.
There was enough room on mine to run the wiring in between the boot collar and the shifter, after I removed the entire center console of course. I threaded it through from the bottom side. There will be enough room to spare to snake the kill switch in there, too!
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:20 AM   #199 (permalink)
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There was enough room on mine to run the wiring in between the boot collar and the shifter, after I removed the entire center console of course. I threaded it through from the bottom side. There will be enough room to spare to snake the kill switch in there, too!
You know, it's too bad we can't regen brake when the car is off and in neutral. There would be so much potential for mpg gain if we could. The ability to be able to use assist to get up to speed and keep the ability to use the kill-switch would be glorious.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:34 AM   #200 (permalink)
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Yup, that's a big drawback of the Honda approach. If I was decelerating from higher speeds, or going down a hill, sometimes I would restart the engine and put it in gear to get regen. You end up in fuel cut mode, so you're still not using fuel, but only for as long as the RPM is in the right range, and regen is proportional to RPM. (So, sometimes I would downshift another gear to go raise RPM and get more regen and extend the fuel cut window.)

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