Your writing style amuses me. Digging the detail and the amount of explanation you provide
Being truthful, I know that the exhaust is not the best place to pick up FE and probably the best place to screw up FE! However, I do know that headers work on V8s and with this motor being half of that...
My thoughts are that it can't hurt, especially changing out the 16 year old cat!
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A light weight header option could be a stock Focus Zetec header, it's small and light
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Would this be it?? ->
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focus on parasitic losses, weight reduction, rolling resistance and aero resistance
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I... must... focus! Lol. These are all in the works, thanks for the clarity!
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I have a wideband and with no MAF fooling happing, it idles at a perfect 14.7:1, I'm not sure where you got 13.5 from
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Second paragraph of post #14 of Little Blue Project Log on TeamZX2.com. You said it first, not I
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At one point I got the idle gph down to 0.08, then I did the math on the actual distance I was coasting (about 3.4 miles each way) and realized the savings was so minimal it was not worth all the hassle trying to get it work right.
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Good to know that somebody else has wasted their time before me! I'll put this off till later... when I go for the 70's, I'll need every lil' trick to save fuel.
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When I did the math on DFCO or EOC, I found a much better pay off for the work. Doing the homework there really helped me refine my driving and my commute route... you could even wire up an engine kill switch so you can open the throttle 100% and stop the pumping losses that are slowing you down so much
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Some questions here Tygen, and anyone else who wants to chime in! I thought we could not do EOC and/or kill switchs since they would cut off power to the engine and cause transmission problems? Or did you mean E-On-C? What kind of homework did you do? If the kill switch is possible, I will definitely install it soon!
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If your serious about lean burn, you need to start with a wideband and I'd suggest jumping right into some tuning software, don't go the route I did, it's quite a headache. You'll pay back the software in a year.
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Oh I'm dead serious lol. What brand of wideband O2s and tuning software would y'all recommend? I like the sound of fast payback $$$
Yeah, I want to avoid the "limp mode" Tygen discovered. Kinda funny
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Watch your Keman Intake (PVC Pipe), it will warp from heat in about a year an start throwing lean codes.
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I'm using high heat CPVC, so I should be in the clear. I'll keep a watch on it
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Alternator kill switches are good for helping reduce parasitic losses as well as underdrive pulley's and P/S & A/C deletes.
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P/S & A/C deletes are coming if I can ever find time around college!!! My P/S has been causing some problems for the entire time I've owned the ZX2. Only when it has first been crunk and I cut the wheels to turn, the car acts like it is going to cut off. It starts bucking and shaking bad for a few seconds and then foes away with time or releasing the steering wheel. This was the reason that the previous owner put new injectors in... I'm not complaining
I don't trust the Powder U/D pulleys... I have seen that they wear out rather fast. Alt. kill switch will be saved as a later mod for when I start squeezing!
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You gotta get some RE92's
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Maaaaaannnnnnn
Don't even get me started!!! I was going to get me a set of these not too long ago! I had my tire choices narrowed down and it was in the top 3... but lo and behold, I couldn't afford any tires
so my parents offered to help me get new tires. How Generous! Buuttt... they were against buying tires offline
and I had to get what they wanted me to get... so I got stuck with Blacklion BH15's. They are not bad tires... chinese made though. Don't even want to know their RRC compared to the RE92's
Tygen, you said in the LBPL that your cruise mpg @ 50 with a tps of 21 was around 55... I ask, HOW?!? I nkow all cars are different... mine doing the exact same as above with a load of 50-51 to maintain speed is only 44-48 mpg. Thoughts? O2 sensors perhaps making the car run slightly rich or lean?