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slowmover · 06-06-2015, 03:38 AM

To Phils list I would add that lower, not just upper, horizontal surfaces should be radiused.

Fully independent suspension where the wheel face is at least parallel to sidewall if not further out (trailer stability, which is resistance to winds and to tripping hazards)

FWIW, I'd stick with Dodge turbo diesel trucks as mpg is always potentially higher as it has been since 1989.

A 5er or gooseneck hitch to distribute weight efficiently on the truck and to clise the truck/trailer gap. I've tried to cover more in other posts on either threads.

Really, though, the problem here is emotional, not technical. The change to the annual fuel budget is not that great, is it?

One must know ones annual fuel cost. The way to pay the 40% FE penalty while towing is to get daily driver costs down. I improved my city mpg by 20% in driving both fewer miles to accomplish the same tasks, and by driving those remaining miles at a higher skill level. Cut miles driven first (cold starts), and strive for highest mpg second. Combine trips and run a planned route to accomplish them. UPS and FedEx drivers do this. No left turns, for example. My savings were such that on an annual basis this would completely underwrite the fuel cost of up to 5,000-miles of towing my 35' travel trailer under ideal conditions.

The best combined rig is the one with the lowest long term costs. A used high quality trailer would be my choice. Same for a Dodge with manual transmission, preferably pre-emission. The 666 Rule: 60-mph, with 6-psi boost or less and 600F EGT. Towing will be harder, but any work toward smoothing transition from truck to trailer will pay. Same for trailer tail.

Towing is generally a 30-40% penalty at a reasonable towing speed. Which is always under 65-mph due to lousy vehicle dynamics and cheap (drum) trailer brakes. Comparisons between solo and towing should be made over a 2-300 mile course at the same speed and with the use of cruise control.

Know your actual costs, attack the weak points, and make solid numbers for predictions. Be painstaking about mechanical details on both vehicles. Those minor while solo are hugely magnified in towing.

As above, see my other posts.

06-06-2015, 03:38 AM	#11 (permalink)
slowmover Banned Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 2,442 2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT Team Cummins 90 day: 19.36 mpg (US) Thanks: 1,422 Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts	To Phils list I would add that lower, not just upper, horizontal surfaces should be radiused. Fully independent suspension where the wheel face is at least parallel to sidewall if not further out (trailer stability, which is resistance to winds and to tripping hazards) FWIW, I'd stick with Dodge turbo diesel trucks as mpg is always potentially higher as it has been since 1989. A 5er or gooseneck hitch to distribute weight efficiently on the truck and to clise the truck/trailer gap. I've tried to cover more in other posts on either threads. Really, though, the problem here is emotional, not technical. The change to the annual fuel budget is not that great, is it? One must know ones annual fuel cost. The way to pay the 40% FE penalty while towing is to get daily driver costs down. I improved my city mpg by 20% in driving both fewer miles to accomplish the same tasks, and by driving those remaining miles at a higher skill level. Cut miles driven first (cold starts), and strive for highest mpg second. Combine trips and run a planned route to accomplish them. UPS and FedEx drivers do this. No left turns, for example. My savings were such that on an annual basis this would completely underwrite the fuel cost of up to 5,000-miles of towing my 35' travel trailer under ideal conditions. The best combined rig is the one with the lowest long term costs. A used high quality trailer would be my choice. Same for a Dodge with manual transmission, preferably pre-emission. The 666 Rule: 60-mph, with 6-psi boost or less and 600F EGT. Towing will be harder, but any work toward smoothing transition from truck to trailer will pay. Same for trailer tail. Towing is generally a 30-40% penalty at a reasonable towing speed. Which is always under 65-mph due to lousy vehicle dynamics and cheap (drum) trailer brakes. Comparisons between solo and towing should be made over a 2-300 mile course at the same speed and with the use of cruise control. Know your actual costs, attack the weak points, and make solid numbers for predictions. Be painstaking about mechanical details on both vehicles. Those minor while solo are hugely magnified in towing. As above, see my other posts. Last edited by slowmover; 06-06-2015 at 03:50 AM..