How to get power in and out of the cooler with out just shutting the lid on the wires?
An obsolete square 6 trailer wiring connecter I picked up from tractor supply on clearance for $2 and a 1/2 inch, 3 hole gland seal strain relief.
Why a connector at all?
Well the original idea was when this was out of season I would drain and dry out all the water from the pump, cooler and lines, then stuff the seat pad and the controlling box inside the cooler. It looks like seat cooler pad is not going to fit, unless I go with a bigger cooler. But I can at least make the control box detach and go inside the cooler.
Why 6 wires?
2 wires will go to the pump.
2 wires will go to a 3 way valve that will be used as a return dump valve to pump water out of the cooler when it gets full or if the seat cooler has been sitting in the sun all day and is full of very hot water.
2 wires for a 40'F switch, that will let me know when all my ice has melted, a blue LED will turn off when the NC switch gets above 40'F.
If I need to put some 4th electrical device in there I can rewire and combine some of the negative wires.