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Old 08-07-2015, 09:56 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I have swamp cooler, in a region where swamp coolers should work best.
Don't care for them.

I wouldn't mind adding a swamp cooler to the condenser coils of a refrigeration based A/C. The condenser coils don't care how humid the air going over them is.

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Old 08-08-2015, 12:27 AM   #42 (permalink)
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had a swampcooler going about 3 weeks ago outside. i feel it cooled real well. we have real humid air here. hesitant to invest in making one just in case it doesn't work as good as a commercial unit.
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:23 AM   #43 (permalink)
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If it's actually too cold on your butt, use what nature uses in the bloodstream to your hands and feet ...
A heat exchanger between the cold flow and the returning warm flow

This will
- warm up the cold stream going to your butt ; the size and efficiency of the heat exchanger will determine your butt temperature
- cool down the return flow, reducing the melting rate of the ice

Remember, cooling is more efficient (or as here: too efficient) as the temperature difference is higher
By increasing (!) the coolant temp @ your butt to a more comfortable level, you'll actually increase the time the system can keep you cool ...
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:13 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I am going to cycle the pump on and off to keep it from making anything too cold.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:32 AM   #45 (permalink)
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How to get power in and out of the cooler with out just shutting the lid on the wires?

An obsolete square 6 trailer wiring connecter I picked up from tractor supply on clearance for $2 and a 1/2 inch, 3 hole gland seal strain relief.
Why a connector at all?
Well the original idea was when this was out of season I would drain and dry out all the water from the pump, cooler and lines, then stuff the seat pad and the controlling box inside the cooler. It looks like seat cooler pad is not going to fit, unless I go with a bigger cooler. But I can at least make the control box detach and go inside the cooler.
Why 6 wires?
2 wires will go to the pump.
2 wires will go to a 3 way valve that will be used as a return dump valve to pump water out of the cooler when it gets full or if the seat cooler has been sitting in the sun all day and is full of very hot water.
2 wires for a 40'F switch, that will let me know when all my ice has melted, a blue LED will turn off when the NC switch gets above 40'F.
If I need to put some 4th electrical device in there I can rewire and combine some of the negative wires.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:58 AM   #46 (permalink)
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This is how I am going to keep the water cool and condensation off the lines as its going through the feed and return lines.
I am just going to double wrap 1 inch wide PVC weather stripping around the lines. I might just shove the return line inside a foam pipe insulator.

This weather stripping is commonly found as being used as "pickup truck bed to camper weather stripping".

This weather stripping does not have a strong affinity for sticking to its self so I am also go over it with some electrical tape or something.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:59 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I got the live well pump timer in today, it is smaller than what I thought it would be.
The body of the switch is only slightly larger then a package of ticktacks.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:07 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Wow, thanks for the thanks, reading your thread now.

Where did you find the Smaller Sureflo pump? The 2 in my car (one for water injection to keep heavy towing EGT's down, and the other as a preoiler so I don't feel bad about constant re-starts) both draw 8-10 amps @13 volts.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:10 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
This weather stripping does not have a strong affinity for sticking to its self so I am also go over it with some electrical tape or something.
Consider using the line insulating covers used in Mini split A/C installs it's pretty high quality foam rubber covered by fabric and was at the time free to me from an A/C technician.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:14 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
I am going to cycle the pump on and off to keep it from making anything too cold.
This is a must, I felt hypothermic on my first test drive (150 miles) when I didn't have a good way to switch power. I ended up with one of the EBay digital 12 volt thermostats with the temp probe shoved between the leather and foam pad a bit away from any tubes. But a switch is adequate for sure.

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