[Beaver]

Hi all,
I changed the timing belt today, and everything looked okay in there. I had a heck of a time getting the valve cover off like the Haynes manual told me to. The 4 little doughnut seals around the hold-down studs were cooked on and had to be assaulted with great vehemence and animosity to be removed, but I got it off without damage. I have no idea why the manual said I had to take it off, no purpose was served, except it clued me in to the likelihood that this engine has never been apart before; varnish city inside the valve cover.
But the problem with the ignition timing still has me stumped. Without jumpering the "diagnostic plug" it reads around 10 BTDC. But I can't fiure out the diagnostic plug. If it is the one nearest the driver's side fender on the firewall with the rubber cap on it, then it is a 6 prong plug with 4 wires; 3 on one bank and only the center one on the other bank. It's nothing like the picture in the Haynes manual and I have no idea which two wires to jump. Does anyone have an idea on this, or an alternate solution? Or maybe I should time it by ear and retard it for a ping at WOT. I understand that these cars don't have a knock sensor, so that might be doable. Is the most advanced timing possible without a ping also best for economy?
Maybe someone out there has a factory service manual for the 96 that explains the diagnostic plug a little clearer than anything I've found. If so I'd sure appreciate hearing from you...
Thx Mch,
Beaver

"I haven't failed.
I've found 10,000 ways that won't work."
-- Benjamin Franklin