Beaver's Metro: is it running too rough?

[Beaver]

Hi all,
I changed the timing belt today, and everything looked okay in there. I had a heck of a time getting the valve cover off like the Haynes manual told me to. The 4 little doughnut seals around the hold-down studs were cooked on and had to be assaulted with great vehemence and animosity to be removed, but I got it off without damage. I have no idea why the manual said I had to take it off, no purpose was served, except it clued me in to the likelihood that this engine has never been apart before; varnish city inside the valve cover.
But the problem with the ignition timing still has me stumped. Without jumpering the "diagnostic plug" it reads around 10 BTDC. But I can't fiure out the diagnostic plug. If it is the one nearest the driver's side fender on the firewall with the rubber cap on it, then it is a 6 prong plug with 4 wires; 3 on one bank and only the center one on the other bank. It's nothing like the picture in the Haynes manual and I have no idea which two wires to jump. Does anyone have an idea on this, or an alternate solution? Or maybe I should time it by ear and retard it for a ping at WOT. I understand that these cars don't have a knock sensor, so that might be doable. Is the most advanced timing possible without a ping also best for economy?
Maybe someone out there has a factory service manual for the 96 that explains the diagnostic plug a little clearer than anything I've found. If so I'd sure appreciate hearing from you...
Thx Mch,
Beaver

"I haven't failed.
I've found 10,000 ways that won't work."
-- Benjamin Franklin

[Coyote X]

I think 10 btdc without using that plug is a bit low, try for something like 18-20 btdc.

Found this on teamswift for you:

The diagnostic connector is behind the glovebox, too convenient under the hood, something had to be done. If you look at the business end, in other words, you're loking down the bores of the individual cavities of the connector, there should be a tab on the top, and two small ridges on the bottom left side, the cavities are three across and two vertical. You want to short four and five, the bottom left and bottom center.

[Coyote X]

just to add to my last post, if you jump the wires and the car stumbles and dies it means your timing is pretty low. Crank it up really high then jump the wires so it stays running. Then you can set the timing properly.

[Beaver]

Okie dokie, I'll try that tomorrow between rainstorms! Thanks for the quick reply, CoyoteX!
Beaver

[Beaver]

The description of the plug from teamSwift was what I needed (except the plug was on the firewall, not behind the jockey box). It worked the way it was supposed to. The timing was steady at around 4 degrees BTDC. I am going to try it at around 8 and see how it acts. But now I know how to do it! Yay!!!

"I love it when a plan comes together."
--Hannibal Smith (played by George Peppard), the A-Team

[DAN]

3 vibs more than 4. try and find someones 3 and see if its like yours.

[SVOboy]

Vibs? Could we try to use words unless they're commonly know acronyms or jargon?