Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
Where are you going to find a manual steering box suitable to the Suburban? BTW maybe you would want to have a bigger steering wheel to alleviate the effort due to the longer lever extension from the center of the steering wheel...
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No idea, I got the idea from JacobAziza (who's a member here) and my P.S. system, while working, did have black fluid in it when I got it. I'm not in a rush to switch it.
Details: Big Orange Work Truck - 1983 Ford F-250 Fuel Economy - EcoModder.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaaa
the cost of the bypass will NEVER be worth the ROI to save anything, if it's even true. advertisers will say anything to sell the product.
i have a bypass filter. it's big. used for several years. took it off of one to run on the other but it now sits on the shelf. cleaner oil can be used longer, don't expect more MPG, but it needs to be analyzed and there goes the savings from keeping the same oil.
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I'm still interested in the Bypass Filter idea, thing is that it's more to prevent wear on the engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aardvarcus
I assume you have or are going to start bathing them in some sort of liquid-wrench type fluid to help if they are corrosion seized. From my construction experience, if you are putting loads of force on a T-25 bit the best quality bits you can get are the Dewalt "Impact Ready" bits, typically available at big box stores in two packs. That would help from rounding out the heads like lower quality bits sometimes will. After several treatments of antiseize and putting a good T-25 driver in a 1/4" socket in a decent ratchet/breaker bar I would think they would come loose (or shear off...).
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I used Seafoam Deep Creep, then I took some of them off and others actually broke off high above the roof line. It looks like I may have to destroy the roof rack supports to get at some and start turning them with a vice grip, after soaking in fluid again.
... I ended up ripping the insert for one screw hole out which I epoxied back in, at least it won't rust; I'm not sure it's stable enough to screw anything into now or if it'll rip the epoxy off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamnotahippee
I am jealous of your 'burb! After having 2 different company trucks with the 6.5 in them, i have a soft spot for the old rattle bangers. In good repair, and driven patiently, they can return decent mpg numbers. Moving the fuel module is a very good idea. They sell pre made harnesses to make the move. Got luck with the Ole thing!
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Hm, you sure that jealousy is healthy? Maybe you should check.
I'm not sure if the PCM was moved or not, there's no heat sink. If it wasn't I'm interested in switching it.
I have very little fuel in the tank now, so I'm able to remove the tank and see if I can find where it's been leaking. I saw there's such a nifty thing as "Fuel Tank Epoxy" which I may use, or maybe it's a gasket near the top that's leaking? At the same time I have in mind coating above the fuel tank with POR-15 and cleaning the tank out.