1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 6.5 Diesel (Automatic)

[iamnotahippee]

I am jealous of your 'burb! After having 2 different company trucks with the 6.5 in them, i have a soft spot for the old rattle bangers. In good repair, and driven patiently, they can return decent mpg numbers. Moving the fuel module is a very good idea. They sell pre made harnesses to make the move. Got luck with the Ole thing!

[101Volts]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

Where are you going to find a manual steering box suitable to the Suburban? BTW maybe you would want to have a bigger steering wheel to alleviate the effort due to the longer lever extension from the center of the steering wheel...

No idea, I got the idea from JacobAziza (who's a member here) and my P.S. system, while working, did have black fluid in it when I got it. I'm not in a rush to switch it. Details: Big Orange Work Truck - 1983 Ford F-250 Fuel Economy - EcoModder.com

Originally Posted by deejaaa

the cost of the bypass will NEVER be worth the ROI to save anything, if it's even true. advertisers will say anything to sell the product.
i have a bypass filter. it's big. used for several years. took it off of one to run on the other but it now sits on the shelf. cleaner oil can be used longer, don't expect more MPG, but it needs to be analyzed and there goes the savings from keeping the same oil.

I'm still interested in the Bypass Filter idea, thing is that it's more to prevent wear on the engine.

Originally Posted by aardvarcus

I assume you have or are going to start bathing them in some sort of liquid-wrench type fluid to help if they are corrosion seized. From my construction experience, if you are putting loads of force on a T-25 bit the best quality bits you can get are the Dewalt "Impact Ready" bits, typically available at big box stores in two packs. That would help from rounding out the heads like lower quality bits sometimes will. After several treatments of antiseize and putting a good T-25 driver in a 1/4" socket in a decent ratchet/breaker bar I would think they would come loose (or shear off...).

I used Seafoam Deep Creep, then I took some of them off and others actually broke off high above the roof line. It looks like I may have to destroy the roof rack supports to get at some and start turning them with a vice grip, after soaking in fluid again.

... I ended up ripping the insert for one screw hole out which I epoxied back in, at least it won't rust; I'm not sure it's stable enough to screw anything into now or if it'll rip the epoxy off.

Originally Posted by iamnotahippee

I am jealous of your 'burb! After having 2 different company trucks with the 6.5 in them, i have a soft spot for the old rattle bangers. In good repair, and driven patiently, they can return decent mpg numbers. Moving the fuel module is a very good idea. They sell pre made harnesses to make the move. Got luck with the Ole thing!

Hm, you sure that jealousy is healthy? Maybe you should check.

I'm not sure if the PCM was moved or not, there's no heat sink. If it wasn't I'm interested in switching it.

I have very little fuel in the tank now, so I'm able to remove the tank and see if I can find where it's been leaking. I saw there's such a nifty thing as "Fuel Tank Epoxy" which I may use, or maybe it's a gasket near the top that's leaking? At the same time I have in mind coating above the fuel tank with POR-15 and cleaning the tank out.

[deejaaa]

Originally Posted by 101Volts

I'm still interested in the Bypass Filter idea, thing is that it's more to prevent wear on the engine.......

but I thought you said:

Originally Posted by 101Volts

I've been reading that cleaner oil = higher MPGs.
.....

[Big Dave]

I use synthetic oil and a bypass filter.

Never noticed it to improve fuel mileage but I do go two years between oil changes. The lab says I'm discarding good oil but 30,000 miles on oil makes my old-school nerves hurt.

But a 14 quart oil change with pricey synthetic dictates oil changes are not something you want to do real often.

BTW: 322,000 miles and no wear metal showing in oil analysis.

[101Volts]

Originally Posted by deejaaa

but I thought you said... (quote in reply)

Yes, I did; it was meant with interest toward higher MPG possibilities but I didn't mention in the same post "less wear". Either way, it's something I'd like to check out.

Originally Posted by Big Dave

I use synthetic oil and a bypass filter.

Never noticed it to improve fuel mileage but I do go two years between oil changes. The lab says I'm discarding good oil but 30,000 miles on oil makes my old-school nerves hurt.

But a 14 quart oil change with pricey synthetic dictates oil changes are not something you want to do real often.

BTW: 322,000 miles and no wear metal showing in oil analysis.

Thanks. You do EOCing if I recall correctly? I won't have that luxury without a manual transmission, the last rebuild was enough to last a while.

In other news, I learned the rear wheel wells (maybe the front ones too, I didn't look yet) need repaired from rust corrosion. I didn't see it earlier because of the plastic arch covers, thank God they're plastic so I can get them back on easily. I also coated the rear differential plate with POR15 after knocking loose metal off, it was looking pretty crusty.

I have a question: can I pump the front tires to 80 PSI Cold and not have abnormal tread wear? The doorjamb says "55" and I have them at 60 now, I'm beginning to wonder if it just said "55" for passenger comfort and nothing else as the front wheels are closer to the driver.

[101Volts]

Air Damming we do go. ♪





I decided to get something a bit more rugged than lawn edging, so it's some floor mat attached to the bumper with plastic that I bent and stainless hardware. It's attached in nine places across the bumper.

I also set the tire PSI to 80 all around. The doorjamb says "55 Front, 80 Rear" though so is this to prevent front tire wear or do you think I could go higher like I did without abnormal wear? I think it depends on the tire used, so maybe asking this is odd but I do seek to know.

[101Volts]

Added the Cold Air Intake. It's made with a plastic downspout (which I painted black,) clothes dryer hose and electrical tape.





I'm not sure how well it aids fuel economy if at all, but the air intake temperature went down much quicker after hill climbs than before.

I also had the front tires at 65 this time since my lower back was bothering me from riding this car, but that may have not been caused entirely from the tire pressure; I later found I had the seat adjusted oddly.

[BabyDiesel]

From what I have seen and read, diesels love cold air. I would think it would help, but time will tell.

From the previous post, I think the place card sets the front tire pressure so low to improve driver comfort. E load range tires can be rough... you might can say its to preserve the suspension parts, but idk of any testing that has been done one way or another.

I like the air dam!

[101Volts]

Thanks.

I also noticed a coolant leak. It's in an easily accessible area, thankfully. This car's looking more like a hypermiler has it now that I got two visibly clear modifications on it. Maybe I'll put covers on the rear wheel wells, I can't say how much it'll help but it's a step in the right direction for using less fuel.

One more thing; I've been looking at Renewable Lubricants' products and they have fuel conditioner for both summer and winter. Does anyone here have experience with it?

[oil pan 4]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...eel-32213.html