Quote:
Originally Posted by Ardent
I'd recommend checking continuity from the ECU to the pickup/sensing coils in the distributor.
Not sure exactly what you have, but some of the typical internal ignition coil distributors have a circuit that is labeled G+ and G- and another that is NE+ and NE-.
The large ECU connector pins 17 and 18, G+ and G- about 200 ohms. Possibly red and black wires.
The large ECU connector pins 4 and 5, NE+ and NE- about 500 ohms. Possibly yellow and blue wires.
Also check that there isn't continuity from any of these circuits to ground.
Does it sound normal when cranking? With the cap off of the distributor is the rotor rotating while cranking? Just wondering if the timing belt is intact. If not it will crank very fast and smooth (no compression) and the rotor will remain stationary.
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Thanks Ardent!
It will be on the list.
The distributor is all-new so the camshaft position/rpm sensor pickup coil is new,along with ignition coil and condenser.
The cam is chain driven,so no problem there.
Cranks normally,just no spark.
Crankshaft position sensor ohms are in range.
Igniter is new.
ECM has been repaired.
Power is supplied to the ECM from 3-different sources and I'm suspect of an open circuit through a faulty EFI Main relay or Circuit-Opening Relay.
There's an Ignition Noise Filter (condenser) but I think it's only for audio RF suppression and don't believe it affects the actual ignition.
Grounding could be an issue anywhere along the circuits.
Somehow,the ECM's ECU portion responsible for the ignition system is not signalling the igniter to interrupt the negative post on the coil,so the secondary winding can send the high voltage out through the rotor.
Since neither the ECM or igniter can be 'bench-tested',even though they're 'new',there's no way to presume that they actually work.
And considering that the igniter was $204,ECM was $189,Distributor was over $300,consider what that's like to someone who paid $80 for their first car?
