Baby template car for DARKO 2016

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Ardent

I'd recommend checking continuity from the ECU to the pickup/sensing coils in the distributor.

Not sure exactly what you have, but some of the typical internal ignition coil distributors have a circuit that is labeled G+ and G- and another that is NE+ and NE-.

The large ECU connector pins 17 and 18, G+ and G- about 200 ohms. Possibly red and black wires.

The large ECU connector pins 4 and 5, NE+ and NE- about 500 ohms. Possibly yellow and blue wires.

Also check that there isn't continuity from any of these circuits to ground.

Does it sound normal when cranking? With the cap off of the distributor is the rotor rotating while cranking? Just wondering if the timing belt is intact. If not it will crank very fast and smooth (no compression) and the rotor will remain stationary.

Thanks Ardent!
It will be on the list.
The distributor is all-new so the camshaft position/rpm sensor pickup coil is new,along with ignition coil and condenser.
The cam is chain driven,so no problem there.
Cranks normally,just no spark.
Crankshaft position sensor ohms are in range.
Igniter is new.
ECM has been repaired.
Power is supplied to the ECM from 3-different sources and I'm suspect of an open circuit through a faulty EFI Main relay or Circuit-Opening Relay.
There's an Ignition Noise Filter (condenser) but I think it's only for audio RF suppression and don't believe it affects the actual ignition.
Grounding could be an issue anywhere along the circuits.
Somehow,the ECM's ECU portion responsible for the ignition system is not signalling the igniter to interrupt the negative post on the coil,so the secondary winding can send the high voltage out through the rotor.
Since neither the ECM or igniter can be 'bench-tested',even though they're 'new',there's no way to presume that they actually work.
And considering that the igniter was $204,ECM was $189,Distributor was over $300,consider what that's like to someone who paid $80 for their first car?

[Ardent]

Is there a tachometer? Does it show rpm while cranking?

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Ardent

Is there a tachometer? Does it show rpm while cranking?

It was disconnected.I'll fix that and check.Thanks!

[Ardent]

Another thing you can do is put an LED in parallel with one of the injectors.

If it flashes when cranking, you know that the ECU is getting an rpm signal, and if you don't have spark, it's confined to the ignition system.

If it doesn't flash, you know the problem is not ignition, but crank/cam sensor, ECU or wiring between.

LED: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LIT1058A

Pigtail: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LIT94902

With a pin probe on each wire, it can slip into the back of an injector wire plug without disconnecting it.

[freebeard]

....consider what that's like to someone who paid $80 for their first car?

My Studebaker was $100, but I got a 1946 Ford from the Dallas, OR, Red Cross for IIRC $60.

When I got the current Superbeetle I put in a distributor from CB Performance, a billet housing with Ford parts. Two years later the Hall sensor snapped in half and when we looked everything in the housing was rusted. CB said it was the ozone and "they all do that". So it was rebuilt locally or sent back, I forget which.

But it didn't help so it was back to an 009 with a Perlux Ignitor, the standard since the 90s. All told I was out about $1000.

[kach22i]

$600 first car here, 1966 Mustang which was more bondo than metal in 1979.

Now I cannot get out of the repair shop for less than double now-a-days.

[BamZipPow]

15A EFI fuse (engine bay fuse box) sends power through the EFI relay which supplies power through the Circuit Opening Relay to the fuel pump. The ECU gits an initial signal from the starter to close the CO relay and then stays closed via the ECU which gits it's signal from the crankshaft sensor. The CO kills power to the fuel pump in the event that the engine stops running (crank shaft sensor). It's a safety feature so the fuel pump doesn't keep pumping in accident if the engine stops running and the fuel line is compromised. You should be able to see if the CO relay is sending power to the fuel pump by connecting some wires to the top of the fuel pump contacts (on top of the fuel tank) and testing fer 12VDC.

The EFI fuse also supplies 12VDC power to the +B of the ECU. This is what powers the Check Engine light. If yer Check Engine light is not illuminated in the Ignition On position, I would check that fuse carefully/replace it or trace power from that point. There are 2 branch connectors from the EFI fuse along the way to the ECU. You should be able to test the +B power on the Diagnostics port located in the engine bay on the air plenum. If there is no power at the +B, you can use at least a 12 gauge wire from the battery to that test port and see if the Check Engine light illuminates. If it does, you should be able to test if the engine will fire at this point. If it fires, then it will be along the EFI fuse wire harness to the ECU.

You will need to build a simple test harness to check fer power along the various components. I'm using a long length of Cat 5 network cable and alligator clips attached to the end. This allows me to test from anywhere along the vehicle with my multimeter.

[freebeard]

I'm good for $20 via snail mail toward gas to get you to Denton, TX.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Ardent

Another thing you can do is put an LED in parallel with one of the injectors.

If it flashes when cranking, you know that the ECU is getting an rpm signal, and if you don't have spark, it's confined to the ignition system.

If it doesn't flash, you know the problem is not ignition, but crank/cam sensor, ECU or wiring between.

LED: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LIT1058A

Pigtail: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LIT94902

With a pin probe on each wire, it can slip into the back of an injector wire plug without disconnecting it.

*the tach operates,indicating around 450-rpm while cranking.
*this suggests that the ECM is receiving the alternating current signals from both Crankshaft and Camshaft sensors.
*with an external power source,the high-tension coil will fire if the C-minus terminal ground is interrupted.
*the wire from the igniter to the C-minus terminal shows continuity and zero impedence.
*I've got to look for the IGT signal from the ECM to the igniter.
*if I find that,it suggests that the new igniter is inoperable,or a bad ground,or open circuit somewhere.
*if I rig up a spark plug cable of identical impedence to the circuit within the distributor cap and join that to a cable and ignition tester/spark plug, directly off the high-tension tower of the coil,and run that to ground;I get nothing while cranking.
*So the igniter is not signalling the coil.
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*while testing all the fuses and relays I discovered that the truck is ' OBD-2'.
*I hooked the ScanGauge up and found one stored code.
* I just printed a set of Toyota OBD-2 codes from Diagnostic OBD and OBD2 Trouble Codes and the 1300 code I read means 'Igniter Circuit #1'.
*the unit I purchased from Auto Zone may be defective (we can't bench-test them so it's a leap of faith that the thing is going to function).
*same for ECM.
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* I'll swap in another igniter and see if it does anything,as well as interrogate the wiring harness and grounds.
*there's an explanation for why she won't run,I've just got to spend some more time with it.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by BamZipPow

15A EFI fuse (engine bay fuse box) sends power through the EFI relay which supplies power through the Circuit Opening Relay to the fuel pump. The ECU gits an initial signal from the starter to close the CO relay and then stays closed via the ECU which gits it's signal from the crankshaft sensor. The CO kills power to the fuel pump in the event that the engine stops running (crank shaft sensor). It's a safety feature so the fuel pump doesn't keep pumping in accident if the engine stops running and the fuel line is compromised. You should be able to see if the CO relay is sending power to the fuel pump by connecting some wires to the top of the fuel pump contacts (on top of the fuel tank) and testing fer 12VDC.

The EFI fuse also supplies 12VDC power to the +B of the ECU. This is what powers the Check Engine light. If yer Check Engine light is not illuminated in the Ignition On position, I would check that fuse carefully/replace it or trace power from that point. There are 2 branch connectors from the EFI fuse along the way to the ECU. You should be able to test the +B power on the Diagnostics port located in the engine bay on the air plenum. If there is no power at the +B, you can use at least a 12 gauge wire from the battery to that test port and see if the Check Engine light illuminates. If it does, you should be able to test if the engine will fire at this point. If it fires, then it will be along the EFI fuse wire harness to the ECU.

You will need to build a simple test harness to check fer power along the various components. I'm using a long length of Cat 5 network cable and alligator clips attached to the end. This allows me to test from anywhere along the vehicle with my multimeter.

Thanks Bam.
*Someone on the You-Tube Toyota forums mentioned that the Circuit-opening relay knocked his vehicle out of service.It's on my list of things to check.
*the Haynes manual is also pointing at the Knock sensor as being associated with ignition timing (ECM & Igniter).
*they also talk about the MAF sensor as part of the ignition circuit.
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*EFI fuse was okay
*EFI Relay was okay
* my schematic shows that the 10-A 'Gauge' fuse powers the Check Engine Light.I'll verify that.thanks!
*I have voltage to the 'BATT' portal at all times.
*I do have power to the B+ portal when the ignition is on and cranking.
*Crankshaft Position RPM sensor is new and in range for impedance,but I need to test it's AC output while cranking.
*Camshaft Position Sensor is new and in range impedance-wise,but also need to check it;s AC output.
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*Twilight Zone showed up with ScanGauge. With the ECM removed from the kick-panel and grounded with a jumper,the ScanGauge will 'connect' and allow 'Scan' function.
*if I mount the ECM back in its place,the ScanGauge will NOT connect with the ECM.
*So somethin's squirrelly with the harness connectors that I've got to look into.
*as of yesterday,I could get the Scan function to reappear,but there were no codes stored and I never 'cleared' the 1300 code.Quirky!
* since the electronics are a complete system,and all the connectors have to connected simultaneously,I'm having to pierce wires with a needle and attach the DVOM to that,take my readings,then seal the wire with liquid tape.