[Hacksaw]

I'm considering doing some freehand work...Maybe, "XFi'd" or "XFi'ed", and would like to add the HP below it. Which sounds good to you all?

Congrats to all who have made the cam swap. I've been pleased with my XFi grind also, and continue to track my increase before permanently adding any mods or changing ignition timing. Factory spec for timing is 5 degrees advanced for my '95 and I kept it there after the XFi swap. Taking into consideration that there is 6 degrees advance ground into the baseline of the XFi cam already, where should my ultimate sweet spot be when I finally do advance the ignition timing? Any proven settings on otherwise stock engines?(no advanced cam gears..)

Anyone considering this swap should just dive right in...I did it the long way, meaning I removed the crank pulley and timing cover, and it was only a two hour job. I couldn't bring myself to cut a perfect condition Timing Cover in half. Anyways, 2 hours...most of us waste that much time in front of the computer each night. I would be more than willing to talk people through it, if that's what it takes to motivate someone. Just PM me.

Parts You'll Need:
One XFi cam regrind (Through Superfly or Delta Cams)
One Valve Cover Gasket set that includes the 4 grommets (about $16.00)
One new O-ring Seal for your distributor that has been leaking anyway.
One Gasket for between the distributor adapter block and #3 cam cap. (take heed, there are TWO bolts that hold the adapter to the head and cam cap...one bolt is revealed once you pull the distributor.)
One camshaft Lip Seal that resides in #1 cam cap (behind the cam gear)
One Timing Belt if yours is near the serviceable mileage limit.

Tools You'll need:
One 10mm socket (I used a deepwell 3/8 drive
One 10mm combination wrench
One 8mm six-point socket with long extension to remove the 4 or 5 crankshaft pulley bolt through fenderwell in 5th gear (neutral to rotate engine)
One 17mm? 1/2 drive w/breaker bar and metal dowel to break loose the cam bolt (cam has hole for dowel to keep it from rotating, pad the valve covers' sealing surface!)
One Center Punch and Small Hammer to rotate the steel/rubber grommets that are under the acorn nuts holding the valve cover on. (tap in CCW direction to spin off. I would think a small, electric, handheld engraver would work perfect here, but didn't have mine handy at the time.)
One Induction Timing Light and a Paper Clip to jumper the diagnostic terminal when setting your ignition timing. (located on firewall behind driver's strut tower with rubber boot over it. Sticker on hood diagrams which two connectors to jumper.)
Some camshaft "break-in" lube would be ideal for cam lobes and lifters.
20 minutes at about 2000rpm!!! Tach would be nice here...

Loosening the alternator isn't necessary to remove the alt/water pump belt, just remove the water pump pulley bolts and tip it off its' pilot. When installing it, just stretch it back onto the pilot of the pump.

This is by no means an exhaustive guide...I'm sure I've forgotten something. Just trying to help you visualized the project to some extent.

EDIT: I wanted to add, that when I marked my timing belts' position, I used a black Sharpie. I made a mark on one tooth of each gear (cam & crank) and also colored the engaged teeth of the belt that meshed on ither side of the gear mark I made. Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal!!! Also start job with sparkplugs out and #1 cylinder at top dead center with timing tag mark lined up. Have at it!!!

Hacksaw.