I had a surprising amount of difficulty finding my own thread, but when I have tried to link a build page to the garage entry for my car, saving did not seem to work.
I have had the Accord for over fifteen months and 20,000 miles. She has been pretty good.
I started getting a check engine light every 750 miles or so for a failing catalytic converter. I did a great deal of research. In theory, the original cat lasted seventeen years. Do I want to spend several hundred dollars, a couple of times what I paid for the car, for another part that should last seventeen years, when the longest that I have owned any car is four? Except, the original cat failed at least a couple of years ago, and my brother-in-law replaced it with the cheapest one that he could find, $110--less than I would lose for the core charge.
My brother-in-law also did not determine why the original one failed. Some people insist they simply wear out, and it is entirely possible to hit a rock or otherwise damage it, but generally they fail because the engine runs rich and the cat overheats, or the engine burns oil, and the additives clog up the CC, although Gumby says zinc was removed in 2010 to preserve cats.
Google neither confirms nor denies Gumby's statement:
https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/ask-our-...rom-motor-oils
I do not know when my sister-in-law (or her husband) replaced the timing belt, but I wanted to do it at 180k, so that I knew that it was good, but now I am at 185k, and while I have found the cheapest supplier for each OEM part, I have not ordered them yet.
I do not like the Honda FSM
My car burns about half a quart per thousand miles. My research says a bad PCV valve is the most likely culprit. I replaced that Saturday and wonder if it is the single easiest repair. It took me twenty-five seconds and most of that was fumbling with pliers. It was so easy I got it on video!
A shop very well might charge $75 - 100 for a repair that took me 25 seconds. I bought the genuine part from Amazon for $22. The old one rattled like it was supposed to. I have not checked my oil since.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ter-35570.html
Instead of replacing my cat, California98Civic helped me acid wash it, and the CEL stayed off for 5,012 miles. I want to try acid washing again once I have fixed the burning oil.
In that thread, California98Civic recommended wet and dry compression tests. I started doing that tonight, but it got dark too quickly. I tested one cylinder and it seemed to read 150+ PSI, but it dropped far too quickly.
That is not encouraging, but I cannot find much information on what that might mean.
Two people voted for an OEM timing belt and four recommended Gates. Everyone says the Gates belts are great, but many people report problems with other components they package in the kit. The consensus is that if it is good enough for Gates, isn't it good enough for me?
I have never used them.
Which timing belt (kit) should I purchase (survey) 99 Accord
The highway patrol ordered me to replace my windshield and I started wondering of using my phone for proof of insurance was prudent:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...rds-35643.html
This actually happened back in July, before the rest of this drama; the front passenger tire blew and damaged my fender, resonator, headlight, wiring, and bumper, but I replaced them for under $200. As soon as I fixed my car and tried to leave town [for a new job] a van rear-ended me on the freeway. I thought the bumper only needed to be sanded down and repainted, but the other driver replaced the cover and painted it for me. I had difficulty believing there was not more damage to my car, that could have easily been horrible. Neither of us were injured, but the front bumper and grill of the van were damaged.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...mum-35333.html
The new fender started rubbing on the door like on the driver's side of my Civic, which was already damaged when I bought the car. I stopped using the passenger door until I straightened it on Saturday and cleaned leaves out of the squirrel cage again.