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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
Well, what helped me to make my decision about changing the motor oil every 3 months was seeing the inside of my heads after my motor broke down and I was forced to buy a Jasper remanufactured motor. My stock LT1 heads were so coated in black deposit and dirty that it was amazing that I had not noticed it while driving, and this was using Amsoil 0-30 Signature Series! I slowly began to lose oil pressure over the years although I didn't notice until my needle one day dropped to zero. I got a manual oil gauge to verify that it wasn't just a malfunctioning gauge but my motor oil pressure was too damn low! I played as much of a role in the failure of my stock LT1 motor as did having too old of a factory radiator with a crack that I was unaware of bleeding off my coolant and leaving a massive air bubble in the system, overheating the engine and doing further damage with time...
It don't matter if the motor oil is tested by a lab to still be able to provide lubrication with carbon deposits in it, you still have carbon in the motor oil and you have gasoline and they are slowly working to alter the chemistry of the motor oil to make it more acidic which damages gaskets, and ultimately becomes more abrasive. I will never allow my motor oil to get as pitch black as I was used to seeing it! One year is INSANELY TOO LONG to change motor oil, let alone 18 months! I refuse to let my motor oil get that bad, not with my newish Jasper motor!
The mechanics and engine builders in the know use conventional motor oil and change it every 3 months and their engines have lasted beyond 200,000 miles and they are so clean on the inside! My stock motor didn't even last 100,000 miles and it was PITCH BLACK AND DIRTY on the inside! Nope, no lab will tell me it's okay to keep the motor oil in my car longer than 3 months...hell no!
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Well, if you are going to continue to throw away real lab test results and only trust color...After those 10K miles and 19 months my oil was a dark amber color.
Oil is one of those things that people adopt the "If it works for me, that must be the ONLY way to do it" style of thinking. Try to expand that thinking a little, AT LEAST get an oil analysis and see what they say.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
I am not sure if this is even possible but it would help with unnecessary fuel consumption at higher RPM and no throttle!
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Not sure if it is possible to add it or possible to have it on a manual car? Newer cars all have decel fuel cut off, but your car is of an age that it might not have it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
My driving style incorporates both. Depending upon driving conditions I take my dear sweet time braking for a stop light or congested traffic ahead of me by pushing in the clutch and lightly, featherly, applying the brake with added increments of pressure until I am at a full stop. I drive like I have air brakes and am hauling a trailer. This gives traffic behind me ample time to be alerted to stopping traffic ahead if they are the type who don't pay attention when driving and like to ride your bumper dangerously!
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It really depends on the situation, but generally the moment you start touching the brakes (ASSUMING YOUR CAR HAS DFCO), you should have been in gear and cutting off fuel. I assume you have read the 100+ hypermiling tips link at the top of the page, and know how to ACTUALLY time traffic lights.
I have looked into the gearing of your car, with 3.42 rear end gears and the six speed manual, and 235/55/16 tires it looks like you can do 1535 rpm at 70 mph in sixth. Is that right? If so, that's some seriously tall gearing, so use that to your advantage.
When I am stuck in traffic or have slowly accelerating people in front of me I will use high gears to get me around 900-1000 rpm when not accelerating. Do you do this? Especially since you've got a big(comparatively) honking V8, you should be able to run it between 1000-1500 rpm most of the time, excluding acceleration. I do that with my 3.0 V6. You should be shifting based on load, not necessarily rpm, so when you need to accelerate, feel free to rev it to 2500 rpm, but when you are cruising, feel free to shift up. When I am putting around in traffic, I rarely exceed 1200 rpm. When I do, it is only to accelerate because traffic is clearing up, or if I am at a speed/gear combination that would require lugging the engine to accelerate the slight amount that is needed. For example, in traffic I am in 3rd gear at 10, 4th at about 15, 5th at 20, and 6th at 27.
If you are going to run the engine at low rpms, it is important to establish where it would be lugging, or where it runs rough. This is where it is awesome to have a scangauge or equivalent that can tell you your engine's load percentage at that rpm. I have established that I can use up to around 45% load between idle and 1300 rpm, 50% load at 1400, and the full house 1500 or above. If I exceed those load limits at those rpms the engine will feel and sound rough. Try to go and find your load limits for your engine so you can find out how you can operate it safely at low rpms.