Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic
The fan is electric. 40% is okay for blocking, and temp should trigger the fan. On long hills temps will jump a bit. In such a situation you might turn the cabin heater on full blast. Also, on my 1998 a setting that helps a lot in normal conditions and uses no energy: temp selector on hot, fan off, internal air circulation selected. Amazingly, the coolant runs thrpough the cabin heat exchanger but the hot air does not come into the cabin.
Do you have a way to monitor temps accurately (not the OEM gauge)?
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Cabin...heater? It's already like 90 degrees Fahrenheit in my car now with temps at 60 Fahrenheit outside and no AC.
If the fan is electric it doesn't consume much power right? Compared to the gains from the blocking, that is. Fan has yet to turn on yet, but just asking out of curiosity.
Up until a few days ago I had been monitoring FE and coolant temp through Torque, but my adapter stopped working and a replacement is currently on its way. When I had only the upper grille block temps stayed the same but the engine warmed up ~0.5 miles sooner (+0.5 mpg over 3 short trips spanning 20 miles, from warm up time alone, not including any aero benefits). Only the outer edges of the lower radiator are blocked with the current setup, and the edges are ducted to the radiator, so I'm fairly confident everything will be okay, but do want to get back to actively monitoring it when my new adapter comes.